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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Milcommoguy

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Today was glow plug day. EDIT to add: 6.5 Turbo

I started on the right side aft plug. I used the medium pry bar to bend the heat shield out of the way some. That one took a while. Open end wrench 1/16th of a rotation each time.

I did the next forward one and it took about as long, again bending the heat shield out of the way and using an open end wrench. I did bend them both back.

After lunch I did the left side in about 15 minutes- easy to get to from the creeper underneath. 3/8inch drive socket wrench made it easy.

Moving back to the right side I pulled the air duct off the air cleaner for more access, and used a zip-tie to hold all the lines/wires/hoses out of the way. For this one I changed to a 1/4inch drive socket.

The last one, second from the front on the right, was the b*tch. I disconnected the coolant hose and moved the hard-line out of the way to give more room, but that (of course) spilled slippery coolant in the place I was working. I was working from the back (passenger seat) and from the top, and got the old one out. Going back in was harder because you can't see the hole, you just have to sort of feel your way around working from the rear.

The old glow plugs used a 3/8inch wrench/socket. The new ones used a 10mm.

All but one were bad. 4 of the 8 were OL on the meter, 2 were in the K-ohms, one in the M-ohms, and the right forward was 1.9 ohms. None were swollen.

Lot of work but glad it's done.

View attachment 878780
Where did you get the plugs? 10 mm might be for the imported ChingV ??, CAMO
 
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Retiredwarhorses

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while I like Eriks military, the correct military GP’s are 3/8, the only versions I’ve found to be metric were some Chinese knock offs that were utter garbage, they even went as far as to imprint the Mfg part numbers in them like OEM, the dead giveaway was the chrome finish and of course the 10mm.
I don’t believe the AC15G is made anymore, they were made in Italy, they were actually the Kascar branded non-swells.
Today, the OEM US military GP’s are non-swell…or as I call them “less swell”…
I would be very very skeptical with installing that plug, I only purchase plugs from a distributor.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
while I like Eriks military, the correct military GP’s are 3/8, the only versions I’ve found to be metric were some Chinese knock offs that were utter garbage, they even went as far as to imprint the Mfg part numbers in them like OEM, the dead giveaway was the chrome finish and of course the 10mm.
I don’t believe the AC15G is made anymore, they were made in Italy, they were actually the Kascar branded non-swells.
Today, the OEM US military GP’s are non-swell…or as I call them “less swell”…
I would be very very skeptical with installing that plug, I only purchase plugs from a distributor.
Well that makes me worry.

The box they came in says AC Delco

ACDelco.jpg
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Well that makes me worry.

The box they came in says AC Delco

View attachment 878843
i just personally haven’t seen AC15G’s in years, maybe they are back in production, the Govt doesn’t use them, OEM plugs are made by Wellman.
There is a new plug out now made in Germany for GEP, HPG sells them, part no. GEP18002668-8
 

osteo16

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I mean, what could possibly go wrong with these!

LOOKS dangerous to me.. I can see that chrome flaking off the minute the plug swells.... Hey, at least you would know your plug was toast without having to remove it to look..
 

Maxjeep1

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Today I installed a new fuel pump. Old pump looked like it was leaking from where they crimp the bottom onto the body. Never seen that before.
Installed my fording cup that I had for 9 months while I was under there.
changed my fuel filter/separator and it looked really good for 20 years old. Oil is black after 1,100 miles and I will change it next week and put new gasket/o-rings on the adapter. This was on my m1123. Friday I dropped my air canister off to have the paint stripped and I will leave it raw or paint it. I order new stickers for it also. Busy couple of days. I need to get my generator on my m1165 figured out. Member here is going to send me pics of one he has available.E94396DB-A495-4D02-837C-2405F230EB5A.jpeg3F90A5AB-6C38-44E9-8784-1D308E1CD17C.jpeg
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Brentwood, Calif
Today I installed a new fuel pump. Old pump looked like it was leaking from where they crimp the bottom onto the body. Never seen that before.
Installed my fording cup that I had for 9 months while I was under there.
changed my fuel filter/separator and it looked really good for 20 years old. Oil is black after 1,100 miles and I will change it next week and put new gasket/o-rings on the adapter. This was on my m1123. Friday I dropped my air canister off to have the paint stripped and I will leave it raw or paint it. I order new stickers for it also. Busy couple of days. I need to get my generator on my m1165 figured out. Member here is going to send me pics of one he has available.View attachment 878859View attachment 878860
oil will be black after 10min….don’t go chasing clean clear Diesel engine oil, it doesn’t exist on IDI diesel engines.
 

Maxjeep1

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oil will be black after 10min….don’t go chasing clean clear Diesel engine oil, it doesn’t exist on IDI diesel engines.
My thinking is when fuel pump failed it got fuel in the oil. When I tilted the pump fuel came out of the arm side. I think I was supposed to change it at 500 miles for new engine? I never seen clean oil come from a diesel either.
 

juanprado

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My thinking is when fuel pump failed it got fuel in the oil. When I tilted the pump fuel came out of the arm side. I think I was supposed to change it at 500 miles for new engine? I never seen clean oil come from a diesel either.
That is not a good sign. Change oil right away. What is the level on the dipstick? Typically fuel pumps dumping into oil will read high and have strong odor.
 

Maxjeep1

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That is not a good sign. Change oil right away. What is the level on the dipstick? Typically fuel pumps dumping into oil will read high and have strong odor.
I’m parked on angle and I will have to get it on flat ground to check it. Oil doesn’t feel bad or smell like fuel. I think I caught it shortly after it failed. My m1165 had same issue and it was noticeable. I will change it this week.
 

TNDRIVER

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Today I installed a new fuel pump. Old pump looked like it was leaking from where they crimp the bottom onto the body. Never seen that before.
Installed my fording cup that I had for 9 months while I was under there.
changed my fuel filter/separator and it looked really good for 20 years old. Oil is black after 1,100 miles and I will change it next week and put new gasket/o-rings on the adapter. This was on my m1123. Friday I dropped my air canister off to have the paint stripped and I will leave it raw or paint it. I order new stickers for it also. Busy couple of days. I need to get my generator on my m1165 figured out. Member here is going to send me pics of one he has available.View attachment 878859View attachment 878860
Check your hubs!!! Right rear first, the fuel runs back thru the vent line and contaminates the lube in the hub. Ask me how I know.
 

Maxjeep1

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Check your hubs!!! Right rear first, the fuel runs back thru the vent line and contaminates the lube in the hub. Ask me how I know.
I didn’t notice any fuel in the vent line on top of the fuel pump. I would see it there if it has went thru the vent system? I need to service my hubs anyways but I was hoping to do same time as new tires.
 

TNDRIVER

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I didn’t notice any fuel in the vent line on top of the fuel pump. I would see it there if it has went thru the vent system? I need to service my hubs anyways but I was hoping to do same time as new tires.
Easy to tell if it got in, turns the lube a milky like color. When I pulled the vent off the top of the pump there was no indication of fuel but it had got to the right rear hub. I have to give credit where it's due. I followed the lead from another post on here about the hubs. Sure enough it had migrated thru the vent line. It's important for everyone to follow up on fixes and failures, especially the safety related problems. Truck will not start, It's a safe truck. Steering or hubs are wonky needs a follow up for ALL EYES. Just my 2 cents.
 

Maxjeep1

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I changed my oil and filter today. If I had fuel in my oil in wasn’t enough for me to tell. I have a few more pounds of oil pressure now. I was able to pour 14 ounces of oil in my filter yesterday and I let it sit overnight and I didn’t spill a drop installing it. It still seams like it takes forever to get oil to register on the gauge. I was going to change the o-rings on the adapter but after getting the filter off I didn’t see it leaking and maybe my drip was coming from the filter. I will keep an eye 👁 on it.
Word of caution ⚠ I’m on a slight angle and I want to get the passenger front up a little bit to get oil to run to the drain. When front tire was barely off of the ground truck started rolling back. It was in gear but parking brake was not on. Haha I almost wrecked both of my trucks at the same time… I chalked the rear wheels and set the brake shortly after that… I still don’t understand why one wheel off the ground causes the other 3 to freewheel…
 

Maxjeep1

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Something to do with awd… my h2 was in park and I had all 4 wheels on the ground and I was removing front half shaft and when I got the last bolt loose it rolled down the driveway and into my neighbors yard. I guess I need to be more careful but I thought if you are in park you were good with 3 or 4 tires on the ground
 
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