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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
Looks good. I haven’t noticed tribute to the USAF on a HMMWV until yours. God bless every service member, past, present, and future! 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
It's not a tribute, just trying to keep it as original as reasonably possible. If I put USMC 621542 on it then I'd have to deal with this:

Person: "Wow, cool hummer. Were you in the marine corpse?"
Me: "Uh, no. It's not a ... I did 20 in the Air Force."
Person: "Oh. Why did you put USMC on your hummer?"
Me: "It's not hummer, and I was trying to keep it original as possible"
Person: "Oh, it's one of those kits? Why did you put USMC on it?"
Me: "No, it's an M1165 HMMWV, and the USMC is how it came from the military."
Person: "Oh... humvee hummer, same thing. Why did you put USMC on it?"
Me: "Somebody kill me please."

But if I put USAF 621542 on it:

Person: "Wow, cool hummer. Were you in the air furce?"
Me: "Yes, yes I was."

See the difference? :unsure:

:LOL:
 

Mogman

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Papalote, TX
Looks nice, I am not sure I have ever seen a HMMWV marked USAF, my DuraVee came from the Air Force and even though it had the correct unit markings it said US Army in the foot wells
 

papakb

Well-known member
2,285
1,185
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
Rebuilt my A0 wiper motor today. The brushes had worn down and because they were making poor contact with the commutator they caused the input filter coil to burn out. Cleaned the entire unit with spray brake parts cleaner and re-lubed everything with lithium grease. I replaced the coil with one that I had in a parts drawer and installed new brushes from Amazon that were 5mm x 5mm x 16 that I sanded down and then used a round file to shape. The hard part was holding them in place when reinstalling the rotor. I used some flat lacing twine and tied them back then removed it and let them spring into position. Now it's back in business. It's surprising that this motor only draws about 200mA when running.
 

Mainsail

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Puget Sound, WA
Did my first fill-up just now and it was $96, but the nearest station is also one of the more expensive around. Treated it with the algae remover as well- looks clear but why not.

Changed the gear oil in both diffs - about 2 quarts in the front and almost 3 for the rear.
 
Last edited:

rcamacho

Well-known member
767
833
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
More fun.
Diff output leak cause is a fully pulled stub shaft. Looks like prior service pulled the whole shaft rather than removing the flange and could not figure out how to press the bearing in situ.
Pulling the whole diff now to inspect and repair. Hopefully the gears and housing are still in good shape.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

papakb

Well-known member
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Location
San Jose, Ca
Differential is out. Gears look good. Ordered output bearings and seals. Housing LT bracket holes are in poor shape. Upper LT hole needs to be welded & tapped. LT lower hole has some pulled threads. Both will get inserts.

Tighten and locktight those differential bolts!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A basic Helicoil kit on Ebay only runs about $15. I'm sure welding and retapping would cost more than that and with the Helicoil there's no worries about heat frying seals.
 

HoveringHMMWV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
472
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Location
AL
Slowly going through my punch card list for the M1151A1. Had a half shaft bolt missing on one of the brake rotors. Not sure how the USMC would’ve missed only one… anywho. The others were rusty, so I ordered a complete new set with two-piece lock washers. Finally was able to start swapping them out and found out every single one was loose! New ones now installed with thread sealer and torqued properly.
 
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