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Ray nailed it. If its anything other than that, replace the assembly (it might just be the cap, if you don't want to solder a new body in place). I would say they are commonly available (they WERE) but are not. Eaton BK/HKP-R is the assembly with the cap. I see lead times of 6 months right now...

You might need to take the metering pumps out, if you have fuel there, but not through them. They can be soaked and cycled to ensure they are spraying. I would look at those, before messing with the rack.

If the condition persists, you could have a faulty oil pressure switch. The battle short trick overrides all of the 'safety' circuits. So if you have a LOP fault, its either because you DO have low oil pressure (which being a mechanical oil pump... its almost always the switch versus a pump...

I have both, just a matter of needing to test them. About to start work on a few machines, so I will see if I can test both when I do so and back in direct contact with you.

I might have a K1 out of an 803 I just parted. I have not tested it yet though.

Could always try Delks too, I bet they have an 004 hanging around. Delk’s Army Navy Surplus 4705 U.S. Highway 64 Asheboro, NC 27205 (336) 629-0991

If you can go without the machine for a few days, pull all of the metering pumps out and let them sit fully submerged in carb cleaner covered and out of the way (getting them lined back up properly in the fuel rack is not difficult... but thats why some folks say to leave 1 in, but it only takes...

Or do you mean where does the maintainer physically go? If that.... I mounted mine on the wall above the dead crank switch. There are photos of this in a previous thread if you do some searching.

The NOCO unit gets wired up to each battery... its a 2 battery maintainer. You just have to make sure you unplug the extension cord from the machine under use, so you arent overcharging the batteries when the alternator is producing DC.

So how about you kill two birds with one stone? Add this to your machine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I normally mount this accessory in the small panel to the right of the aux fuel cord door, in that little cutout panel) Plus...

Good find. Ive never seen those made of anything other than a plastic polymer.

Try this for line instead: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe-ii/gates-safety-stripe-ii-1-8-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-fuel-hose/gatr/27000 Secure all of the T ends with small zip ties as you have done before and reinstall. It will take a bit of grease to possibly aid in...

If you need a new K8 I have a couple listed in the classifieds here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/19230-overload-short-circuit-relay-88-21141-5945-01-366-2726-120-ea.197053/

I might have a complete engine available in MA.

Save yourself the grief... take the roof off above the controls, and remove the side panel near the water separator (or remove all bolts except for the very lowest right position... its a PITA to get to, and if you leave it in place you can rotate the entire panel up and out of the way) to...

Yes, that is true you can disassemble and replace with 12V bulbs.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153570291822

I've yet to enjoy enough downtime to get my A427 up and tested... one of these days.

You see the listing for this item on Oshkosh?

Would love to be in. Thanks for the sponsorship Hawker.