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I use 1/4" hardware cloth on the underside, with self tapping sheet metal screws. If you want to bullet proof it, do the air intakes on the sides, and figure out how to delete the 'sock' at the wire entrance with something that a rodent cant climb/chew through.
If you are running light loads, its a good idea to put seafoam into your fuel when you do burn it hot. Helps kick the rest of the crud out of the system.
For as complex as these machines are, when you really start looking at each part and how they work... its not as daunting as one might think. Guy has got you on the road to success with this issue.
If you want to go with the OEM style, SS user Suprman sells them on ebay here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MILITARY-MEP-802A-803A-804A-DIESEL-GENERATOR-FUEL-TANK-DRAIN-NITRILE-WELL-NUT/224013193011?hash=item34283a0f33:g:-nYAAOSw9IdewIXl
Thanks chaps. Happy to stuff one in a box for UPS/FEDEX delivery if you were interested Denvercaitland. They can be seen in the Steel Soldiers classifieds here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-803-813a-replacement-door-starter-side-88-20078.196472/
The pictures are older... they show...
If I were building a DC generator it would probably involve an old school Lister Petter air cooled engine, and a discrete DC alternator tied together either by chain drive or belt. But there are way more knowledgeable folks on the topic. Thats just something Ive considered doing over the years.
If you pick up the freight via usps I'll just toss the couple dead pumps in a box and you can sort through them at your leisure. They will be complete, less mesh strainer.
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