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Based on the wattages you call out, I think the 802 is a better size for what you want to do... considering partial loading on anything other than peak, I believe you will not be able to sufficiently load down the 803 to keep it burning clean and not wetstack on you. Especially considering the...

These sets above cannot be paralleled together. The box on the fender synchronizes the two machines, so you can 'hand off' a load to the other machine on the trailer without going down. It is not for parallel operation.

I think its black RTV from the factory, but I didnt have any handy.

Ive only had a couple come in that were actually sealed... most have nothing. Your choice to reseal or not. On the couple I had in with it, I just used adhesive backed foam to do the same thing.

No the solution is to make sure you are running it sufficiently loaded. 30% of rated load won't cut it. Get the machine loaded down and burning hot... it will clear itself up.

Its unburned fuel, that collects as a sticky tar like substance in your top end and muffler. If your exhaust gas temperatures are not sufficiently high enough, unburned fuel is going to collect where I said, as it cools. Recipe for problems. Edit: It normally shows itself as black goo oozing...

You will NOT want to run a liquid cooled MEP at 30% load, for any length of time. It will wet stack like crazy. I think the parallel idea is more beneficial to your real world use, those it will probably consume more fuel versus the stand alone bigger unit.

Both are excellent machines. The newest 003 you can buy is now 27 years old. Parts are available, but less so over the years. 003 is louder, 803 is more refined. Both will do the job. 003s are built like tanks. 803s are excellent machines too. 003s are typically less expensive, because of the...

They aren't making the gauge any more, that is correct. I just happen to have that Beede fuel gauge in stock.

I am referencing the roof portion over the electronic controls, not the engine bay... but yes, you are already halfway there.

Send it back to GMG and pick one of these up: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-fuel-gauge-88-21103-beede-945331-6625-01-366-0193-50-ea.199406/

I think you need to plan on taking the roof off and looking at the load contactor. I would suggest pulling down the -24 manual as well, see if they have any instructions as to power at outlet but not the lugs.

Ebay is a good source of parts. Even better is knowing how to use the -24P manual to ascertain item numbers which you can then cross reference on various sites, to find manufacturer numbers on what you want. Its an invaluable source of info for us. Does the light on the AC connect switch light...

I show that same filter at $1.22 on rock auto... still an unbeatable price. Thanks Ray.

If the water separator was junk, make sure you also change out the inline strainer (just south of the primary pump, if you have one) as well as the small fuel filter before the metering pumps.

I thought it was plastic, I didn't read the fine details. Even better. The flow is directional though, so you might need to run (2) off a T so one can relieve negative pressure, the other positive pressure (one mounted inverted).

Not sure how it would fare long term with the fumes, but its definitely cheap enough to work something out. Vacuum will find a way to pull no matter the medium.... there could definitely be something to this. Im just about to refill my drums for the winter and I need to find a different...

You might want to refresh your classifieds ad, the link in your signature is DOA.

You still making kits Speddmon?

If someone had a bad PSU unit, can the Ambac be dropped in its place? I assume the answer is yes... I've been lucky with air cooled machines thus far.