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The fitting on the auxiliary fuel input is AN-5, which you aren't going to find hardly anywhere. The civilian equivalent is JIC 5/16. Here is the info on the NOCO setup I have: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?183609-MEP-Emergency-Jump-Starting&p=2179598&viewfull=1#post2179598
Your machine does not have the quad fuse modification done. Its well worth your time and effort to do it before you turn the machine on again. Look that phrase up here, to find the parts you need. Simple modification, big potential $$ safety addition.
A lot of points in your thread, so sorry to break up the responses. You can mount up a NEMA connector box on your machine, so you can use a standard NEMA L14-30 generator cord, or you can make a short custom cord (with a female plug end) that would do the same thing, but a little bit different...
Optima Yellowtops are the factory issued batteries. Group 51 and 51R (reversed post layout). Good to have one of each kind, due to how they mount, and how they wire up. Find the biggest CCA Group 51/R you can and run them.
There is a thread Daybreak always posts to filters/coolant/etc. All your...
Yeah I've just swapped the unit out with a WIX replacement before (with bottom drain), but on my personal machine thats what I would probably do.. just upgrade to a bottle style.
Yeah the rotating of the arm is one of those sneaky little tricks that all users want to have in their back pockets. Much easier to play first, before having to take the entire thing out.
There is a fuel level float switch (88-20492) up on the big auction site now. The fuel tank sending unit can be crossed to a generic Dorman (I did that on one machine, as have others... its somewhere here in the forum). Just takes a little creativity in shortening a shaft, and wrapping some...
If I were buying today personally, I am not sure what I would do. The market is definitely softening on prices, but its still rather high. I'd probably be doing some sort of cogen system, but the MEP works well for now :)
Do you have a can of contact cleaner? If not, consider getting some for your stockpile. Corrosion in the open element switches on these machines is a real thing, and can definitely cause what you are experiencing. I think you should start (when the machine is off) flipping the load switch on and...
If this is a fuel issue, get to the front of the machine, and start it cranking... simultaneously flip up the battle short after cranking has started and see if it fires up and stays running. If its truly NOT a lack of fuel, but the machine thinking its out of fuel, shes gonna stay running.
You can always find a transfer tank locally (craigslist, etc) from a vehicle, that would work well too if you can provide a solid mounting off the ground for it.
You have to check for markings on the containers. The specific gravity is of particular concern, if a container will hold what you want. Here is some basic background info: https://www.newpig.com/cracking-the-code-explaining-un-ratings/c/8011?show=All
Yes, thats what I was referencing. My tanks are on poured concrete, but sitting on top of containment vessels: https://www.zoro.com/eagle-drum-spill-cntnmnt-pallet-2-drum-5k-lb-1632/i/G1116193/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrcq6ytfy4gIVAUSGCh0eBgNiEAQYASABEgLIaPD_BwE
Ive got a half dozen drums under tarp with pressure relief valves installed... no water at all. They do make drum caps too, to make them completely shed water. Whatever works, folks think what they will.
It depends on where the porch faces... it might not always be the wrong side. You can coat the drum in fluidfilm too, and be done with it. There ARE better solutions, but its a pretty good one dollar for dollar.
I used lined 55g drums, work quite well. If I had the money, I'd probably just install a 275g HHO tank and be done with it. The drums provide portability though, so its all a tradeoff.
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