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If you head back to the first page of this thread, you will see it. :)

I am with you HH.

I used the kind Farmitall talks about... $20 something each on ebay (I feel like they were less than that, but I dont recall at the moment) is what I see for them now. They have the nice durable shell around them, which allowed in my case to mount them all together. Someday soon I might actually...

I thought real men made their wives do it? Is this like the guy at work who I manage, who tells me real men dont drink almond milk? Pretty sure this same chap doesn't know which end of a screwdriver does the work...

You really need to look the set over completely before firing it up again. If the set was backfed, you need to make sure the electricity didn't dance around your set and do any damage inside the control box or anywhere else. You got lucky... don't assume luck will look upon you twice. I don't...

So FWIW, on the big auction site are currently what you are looking for. Search for 'fastcashmoneyman' and you will find them (actually SS user Suprman). $12.99/ea and rated for diesel according to the auction. I still like the bulkhead fittings ;)

New machines are a breeze, as most are captive nuts (especially the seam over the genhead... thankfully someone wised up that $2.25 in captive nut assemblies could save so much headache).

My favorite part is the large 50g tank built into the skid, like you find in the big commercial sets!

The most likely cause sounds like bad well nuts, or deterioration on the rubber collar that interfaces the tank with the metal filler neck slide assembly. Or its simply come loose and is not seated on the tank properly. You should know real quick once you take that tank sheet metal panel off.

Ive had some fuel put up in drums for 2 years now, fully stabilized with Power Service and some other additives which escape me at the moment at work. I utilize a pressure breather...

Edit, without running the set, let it sit at Prime + Run for a few minutes, and look over the entire fuel system to see spray leaks/seepage, etc.

Definitely pull the panel before anything else. Look at the wellnut where the return spout is positioned, as well as the well nut on the outside of the tank. You might want to get someone else there and try to articulate the trailer in the same way, with a set of eyes on the rear fuel system.

You need to start a new thread on this topic.

That it is, but good info all the same for future folks looking for the same topic.

For stationary use, you should be OK as the fuel will still suck through the line and through the copper fuel shaft submerged. With that said, I might have the top with rubber washer, that is missing parts, that I could part with. Let me rummage through the garage tomorrow, and I will circle back.

Being that they stopped producing the TQG in '12, when might they have phased in a 'new style'? Not sure we will ever know (and unless our resident DRS folks know/remember this detail), it might be an open ended question. I do hope those looking find the Nitrile at the end of the rainbow.

And those shots you took do show the 4 dots at the inside tank end on the fitting, so I believe those are Parker nuts (they also say pat. pend. for the term Wellnut on them). Most manufacturers have little interest in discussing expired contract military specifications with Joe Schmoe off the...

So the question stands... if there are nitrile models available, and they were what was used OEM... why do these leak still? I understand the spec calls for nitrile, but this part seems to be a very common failure point on even the most upkept machine.

I do understand the material difference between what I linked to, and Buna-N. I have not found a nitrile well nut in my travels. Even Parker doesn't do one: https://www.parker.com/literature/ISS5809.pdf

I have considered finding a nice smaller unit (2.1/3kw) for overnight runs, to add to my personal collection. Glad to hear everyones good, considering.