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And for anyone that does want to run the stock units, its a Pop Avdel 3ZLV3: https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZLV3 Cheaper than GMG I am sure.

I dont know if you are going to find one. Besides... the bulkhead fitting upgrade is a one shot, one kill permanent upgrade. The tank does NOT have to come out of the machine either to do the swap. No longer is there worry about degradation and fuel spilling out (or someone kicking the stem and...

I like that... would have thought they put one on OEM. Oh well, nice upgrade.

I have only replaced them as needed (ie... damaged or sign of leaking). Past that, its just a water separator. Run clean fuel, and just do a small test dump everytime its run for any length, and you should be good.

So do you not have this wired up with a manual interlock, which would never allow this to occur?

Just take the side panel off so you get get the wrench in from there. Dont waste any other time doing it any other way. And make sure to oil the new gasket when you put it in :)

I'd recommend not truncating any wire in these sets. They all have good, definite purposes for being there. So the light comes on for two reasons: You have no fuel The set THINKS you have no fuel As you say you have fuel in it, great! So that leaves two components... the fuel sending unit (ie...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/P3-International-Kill-A-Watt-EZ-Meter-P4460/202196388 In stock in both W Hartford and Berlin, CT locations ;)

Get that puppy back up to full speed, before you do actual harm to the electronics in the set. Do not run it again at less than 'full' throttle.

So do you have the throttle control pulled all the way out, or is it running a less than full speed? The gauges on these older machines should be taken with a grain of salt. One of the best tools you can buy is called a Kill-A-Watt. Google it... and get one (under $30). Will allow you to see...

I want to see if the machine makes power. If you have power at the lugs, you only need to troubleshoot the circuit that involves the outlet. See my logic?

Welcome to SS. So... you happen to peek through the TMs on this genset yet? Are you able to get power at the lugs?

I was going to address voltage after fuel answers. 24V devices need 24V... not 23.2, not 22.7, etc. Even though they are new batteries, verify you are getting over 24V.

I think you want the Onan 122-0399 (SPRING, HELICAL, COMPRESSION: OIL FILTER). Find an Onan dealer in your area and get a price. If you intend on keeping this machine, might be worth the money to find one of those oil filter kits and adapt your machine to accept modern screw on filters with...

Start with these two posts above me, and let us know. You do have a handy replacement (the aux pump) built into the machine if you want to diagnose more.

Our tax money at work!

You are talking about the insulation on the side inlets?

How do the fuel lines look, especially the return line (Which goes up over the top of the engine, down the back, and to the fuel tank). Very common to have this seep fuel.

Check the documents at the end of the page: https://power.cummins.com/military-generators-ammps-gsa

I think the TQG series is where its at for cost vs performance. AMMPS and on is going to be nothing but a parts nightmare, with the inclusion of more and more electronics (and as good as the US supplier base is for these parts, they are still sensitive electronics that are not commonly available...