Search results

FINALLY got around to doing my machine... what a slacker (taking care of the front oil seal, replacing the fuel float, replacing return fuel lines (as I did the main lines last Spring, etc). Got the nut in with a piece of coax snaked through to pull tension on the nut, and thats all good to go...

Chainbreaker wrote it up nicely... NVH or not, consider your realistic use, and long term needs.... might save your keyster when it really counts.

Ive used the Gates from O Reillys... its a little undersized, so it takes some definite elbow grease. But its readily in stock down the road, and should last quite long.

The OEM spec is Optima Red Top 34/78... but with that said, I typically use Group 51R in both my 802s and 803s. They are a smaller footprint, but have the same cranking power (so they are easier to get in and out). Plus they are a little bit less expensive.

I won't say its my second home, but I know the area well https://www.impomag.com/news/2018/07/injuries-reported-blast-pennsylvania-army-depot Just learned the other day that the tire shop right across from the marshalling yard for auction business closed up... a shame, was a great place to fill...

Are you sure you aren't describing marriage here, Guy?

Can you get it to crank to start, and flip the battle short up to keep it running?

The rule of thumb I believe is so long as you can keep it at 30% at the lowest... you should be good for long durations. You will of course need to run it hard after a real low run, but I think 30 is kind of the threshold I have read here a few times.

If you are pulling 90%, let that go for a couple hours and the bluish smoke should clear up (just be home when this is occuring, so you can be mindful of any burning gunk your machine decides to jettison from the exhaust system...). Feels good, doesn't it?

I have 802 doors, but not 803 unfortunately Jimmy. Good luck with the hunt.

And some folks want our government employees to handle our health care... I always wanted to be an elderly diabetic black woman by mistake!

Battle short is an excellent on-board tool for diagnostics :)

What lugs are energized (whats your voltage reconnection switch set to)? And how do you have the AM/VM gauge set on the front of the control panel. Pictures help where words fail.

This is why I always set the dead crank to off, as a matter of habit. To me, its a lot like shutting off the 20lb propane tank in your grille... only takes once to have the device not work when you need it to over something silly.

The engine was provided to the military contractor from Onan. It is a model number DN4M. It is actually a rebranded Lister Petter LPW4, sold under license to Onan for this application. Depending on if the engine is new, or a rebuilt unit, you might find either manufacturers label. Same exact...

Yes, you are going to want to disconnect the line from the end of the fuel rail. You can't take a shortcut back to the tank from here though... if you take the top sheet metal off, you will see that there are 4 plastic Ts on top of the cylinder heads where this line sits. To do this job right...

Make and model of the AC you have? If you can't find the data plates on it for energy, I can probably do so online to see what the behemoth is asking you for.

Looks like a great add on for some folks. I like things as simple as humanly possible, so its not for me... but I can definitely see the appeal!

Also a silly question... but what voltage setting are you running at?

Yes, figuring out what you are actually asking the machine to produce, is the baseline. Look at all of the appliances you want to turn on and find their data plates/stickers showing energy use on them. Folks can eat up power faster than they realize (especially with high draw items during their...