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The sheet metal on the top-left corner of what you posted is the back wall, separating the engine compartment from the fuel tank. It is behind that sheet metal, at the bottom, which I am talking about. If you look on the back of the machine, there is a removable panel at the bottom (just to the...

Welcome to SS. Take the sheet metal panel off the machine near the fuel inlet, and you will see exactly where the line terminates. It does pass through a clearance hole in the sheet metal, to end above the fuel tank. Very easy repair, and a great time to learn a bit about what runs where, and why.

I don't know why thats happening, but I hope a moderator comes by to address. Thanks

Its not needed in Miami, but it never hurts to have 5 gal of kerosene on hand in the colder states, to mix with diesel in the real cold months as needed.

The NSN will be the same between the styles. Crack open the -24P and find the info for this part, and hit up parttarget.com. You should get some good info to track down.

I just looked, and all the uploaded PDFs in the TM area for your machine are just that. You need this for your phone: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/adobe-acrobat-reader/id469337564?mt=8

Almost all of the TMs that I am familiar with are in PDF format. Do you have a PDF reader?

Welcome to SS.Triple check the wire locations by number, against the schematic. All it takes is 1 in the wrong position. Have you tried load testing this in any other voltage position? (like loading it up all on 120V, and setting the machine to output only that)? Also have you tested this...

Could be rain (if it was a real windy day), or could be condensation dripping down, if your humidity and dew points have been unseasonal lately. Why not take a garden hose and shower the thing as rain would for 10 minutes, and open it up... see what you find.

Welcome to SS! Good choice going 802... an underrated gem.

The space in the thread is free... use the collective strength of all SS members to solve your problem. Post a thousand pictures if you want... more qualified eyes on a problem gets you to a better answer, quicker.

So the set makes power, just up to 85%.... troubleshoot this until the cows come home, before getting into some 400hz hack job! I've had issues like this, that were resolved with a simple fuel system cleaning. Others involved just cleaning the **** out of the VSS and AM/VM with contact cleaner.

I don't need one, but thanks for offering up to the forum.

Here is what you want to line a tank: http://damonq.com/red-kote.html

Can we get a shot of that top opening?

Does the tank have a 2" bung on it?

No, you would not see a remanufactured engine in a 'new' machine. It may have been a tiered reset... but they didn't always put the Tier reset plates on the machines until later on. But knowing that its a re-manufactured job, thats what I would consider being reality.

Ok so a pretty standard 240V setup. Yeah just rotate the switches a bunch in both directions, as many times as you can stand. Even without the contact cleaner, the movement of the contacts might show you progress.

Good luck when you get into the machine. Are there any stickers anywhere on the machine, that have additional information (that might point to the machine having been reset at a certain hour count, or receiving repair with an hour marking?). The engine certainly may not have 1917 hours on it...

Why reinvent the wheel? Just source a milspec aux fuel hose (part numbers called out in the thread I linked to) and if you are going with a drum, transfer tank, or other holding body with 2" bung on it, use the milspec bung adapter. What kind of tank are you intending on hooking to?