Search results

The manual tells you to look for them and I think some trucks had a sticker about them on the bed rail. Glad you got it off.

The water cooled air compressor didn't stay around long. Maybe to 1957 before they switched them all out. Mine are a '52 and a '53 that both left the service in 1956 to go work for a contractor. That is how they still have the water cooled compressor and clam shell air regulator. I don't...

You do need a load tester. Most places that sell batteries will test them for you. Or, you can guy one at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap.

This has been written many times on here and it seems a repeat is needed. The -20 troubleshooting section states at the very beginning to load test both batteries before doing anything else. If you haven't done that, then you are just working in circles. Make sure you actually load test them...

I am reading the thread Chris. I went 2437 miles a few weeks ago taking my Scouts to summer camp in Colorado. I had 2 spares for the truck and 2 spares for the trailer. Besides having a tire that was checked the night before go from 65 psi down to 20 psi the first 150 miles. We stopped for...

TM9-8022 is THE manual for the Gassers. I got one off Ebay years ago. Otherwise, you need the 1965 TM's that cover Gasser stuff. Those stacked air tanks scream DUMP TRUCK to me. What does the data plate say.

White smoke on start up indicates more fuel than heat. Are you sure all 8 glow plugs are getting 12 volts? Put a volt meter on each battery while the truck is running. If you are in the yellow on the volt meter, one of your alternators isn't working. 14.4 volts at each battery between the...

OK, I knew about them. All those trucks were hidden at Pops parts by Bastrop until the ownership change a year or so ago. I considered that my private stash for a while. Thanks.

Mine shifter harder after a fluid/filter change. It also downshifted on slow hills when before it wouldn't. I would suggest another filter/fluid change in a few thousand miles.

Were is this '09 junk yard you speak of?

There was also a fuel filter between the frame and the fuel pump on the drivers side of the engine. Little bitty inline thing. I totally agree about trailering it home. 5 mpg is all mine ever gets on the open road. Worse in town. You might be limited to 30 mph due to over heating as well...

I had mine loaded with another M35 and with a loading dock. Pintle to the rear. Lots easier to unload that way.

Sounds like your passenger alternator is not working. Your rear battery should get charged and load tested just to make sure it isn't bad. The -20 manual has a step by step section on how to test it. Plus there are many, many threads here about this problem. Totally separate from that is...

Do what is called a "dry park check." Have the vehicle on solid pavement, put somebody behind the wheel as you lay down under the front end. Have them move the wheel sharply back and forth while you put your hand on every single connection of the steering linkage. You can feel slop before you...

Call the guy and ask him to not have it warmed up. You want it to be stone cold. Flip down the drivers sun visor and it tells you how to start it. Ask the guy to take you though how he does it. 5-10 seconds of glow plugs once the key is on. It should start within .5-2 seconds of hitting...

I like that idea Sam. Maybe for the Veterans day parade since we never have very many riders for that one.

Is it a constant 10 mph over or just fast at speed? All the time too fast and I would think somebody changed out the drive or driven gear for the cable in the tease. Sometimes too fast and jumping then I would suspect a bad cable or casing causing it to wind up. It is a 85 mph speedo, not a...

Those burned out woods really are freaky to drive through. Colton had a school tennis match a few weeks ago in Bastrop. The fire burned up to the edge of the courts. The green was gone from the concrete. Kind of weird. Sorry I missed the BBQ. My Scouts were in the parade and flag deal...

I would suggest cleaning the contacts on that sensor. Pull the glow plug card and clean the contacts on it too. The -20 has a section on how to check that sensor and what Ohms it should spec out at. A fully warmed up engine should lite off with less than a second of cranking up to an hour or...

Put a volt meter on the glow plugs and see that they are actually getting power when the glow plug light is on. Then, with the power lead off each glow plug. Use an Ohm meter to test the resistance from the power in blade to the threads. Should be 2-3 ohms. The -20 manual takes you through...