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Sounds like a neat office :). What did it cost to ship that?

Well done. I like it much better than a tongue modification.

Yup, be careful. My BIL ruined a trailer doing exactly what you are planning to do. Are you lights working after you relocated them? It looks like you painted the bracket and did not grind off the paint on the frame.

1. You may be able to get a few dollars more than shipping cost for small parts and probably scrap value for large parts. Remember, people that buy these trailers tend to be somewhat frugal and know that you can buy an entire trailer for $500. I was able to sell my basically new tires for...

Very nice. Do these fire?

Make sure your new axle has manual parking brakes.

Thanks for the pics. How long is your car hauler? I recently picked up a 105. Debated what to do with but am in the process of filling it up with firewood for the winter. I may decide to do something with it at a later date but right now it is the cheapest way I have found for storing...

I have been pleased with the Dextero tires from Walmart. 225-70-16 Load Range E were $115 out the door (mounted and balanced).

$1800-2000 if you include plate. Good looking trailer.

Good ideas. Thank you. Do you recall the wall thickness of the mil axle? Do you have pic of the new leaf spring set up? New axle will have to be 3 or 3.5" diameter and the mil axle is 4.5"

Unless you are wanting to get a 5 or 6 lug hub, I would just replace with a 7K axle. These trailers can handle up to 3K payload plus the 1.5K of trailer so I would not go smaller than 5.2K axle.

1. No 2. No. 3. Yes, many do to accomplish 1 and 2. Many have tried to do a hub/brake swap and only have a pile of parts and a new axle to show for it. This thread convinced me not to try a hub swap. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?48057-M101-A2-amp-A3-Axle-Spindle-Question

I meant to say that hub face would have to be only 60" to stay withing the axle manufactures recommendation, which would be too short to clear the fender wells. I think I will go with a 68" hub face. Which is still 8" more overhang than recommended.

Got it. Thank you. Spring center is 40" so ideally the hub face would be not greater than 60". http://www.trailerpart.com/7kdroptraileraxle.htm The tire rating on the truck tires I wanted to use is only 2680 lbs/tire, I may just end up using good trailer tires instead to get a 3500 lb...

I see you ordered a 68" hub face axle. How much room does that leave you on the inside of the fender and to the outside of the fender? I was thinking of ordering a 72" hub face because I want to use a 9-10" wide truck tire and wheels with 2" off center (towards the outside) mounting surface...

I agree that the axle, wheels, tires, and surge brake assemble are the only real places to remove weight. I tried to put on on a diet and was pretty unsuccessful. I would keep the components even if you demo the surge brake assembly.

Any updates? I just picked up a 105 and kicking around modifying it or using as is for firewood storage.

Might be worth giving these guys a call to see if they can just make a new set. http://www.alcanspring.com/

You should be able to fit a sheet of plywood between the fenders on a 116A3 without any mods.

Thanks for the pictures. I would not have guessed that was 3K lbs worth of gravel. Were you watching the tongue frame in a back up camera? What tires do you have on it? Here is a pick of a heavy load in my 101A3. I did not get a chance to weigh it...