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On mine you really have to know where the starter is since it got painted and hides out of view next to the steering column support... I just leave a wrench in the battery box and pull the ground; plus the usual chock the tires... Not going anywhere...
I got mine from tacoma screw locally here in stock all day long - 3/4 - 16 flange nut - black oxide (all metal lock nut / compression lock)cost me ~25$ per wheel... the orings are availiable several places - got my last set from George at White Owl. The 3/4" stud rim take a thin round o-ring -...
Nice looking tractor... As for that manifold no worries - try these on for size... and they are the smaller medium speed diesels I work on... the big stuff has a man door to go in the intake (105cm / ~41.5" diameter pistons)... sure it neat stuff though! The big log above my head is the wet...
My 66 M35 locks the OEM doors if you actuate the inner door handle foward - so I just lock the pass side, open the latch on the front window; shut the driver door and reach in to lock it from the front window. Shut the window and no one ever thinks to open the windscreen and run the inner door...
Guys - with the ISSPRO pyrometer stuff you cannot change the braided preterminated thermocouple wires - however the sending wire from where the braid ends can be shortened - the included in struction specifically say so - I have installed 5 or 6 of these on Formula Fords (open wheeled race cars)...
Push in the e-stop cable above and to the left of the 3 lever light switch and then rotate the accessory switch (goofy looking one right above the lights) clockwise and up... the starter button should be just out of view (in this photo) at the bottom edge of the dash to the right of the steering...
That too (definitely interested in that number!) - but I was actually looking at the full length muffler on SasquatchSanta's rig and the bent air cleaner horn pipe - what kind of seal does that have at the airbox - fording proof? Thanks
Matt
As i get things organized I will start a thead with...
Yup Brad is a good guy; I ended up getting my duece from him... He is usually out working in the yard or on base or XXXX during the day so trying to get a hold of him is hit and miss...
I am still trying to find replacement studs for the 5-ton combats with the 10 bolt lock ring (3/4" studs)-...
Re: 395s VS 1300s
I am interested in the air pipe and exhaust stack you have going on there, I am working on putting 14.00r20's on mine right now - I'll post up later with how I am doing it - basically morphing the 5-ton combats with the factory duece split rims...
Any more photo's of the...
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