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I did several searches but couldn't find an answer. Has anyone adapted the CTIS to work on HEMTT wheels?

Perfect thanks. It might be cheaper to buy a new wheel if the studs are $20 each! I would still need the nuts too

I went to swap some tire of my combat rims and two of the outer studs that clamp the rim halves together stripped the thread on the nut. The nut will spin freely but the stud doesn't move. I checked to make sure the stud wasn't spinning in the wheel and its not. The threads between the nut and...

I searched YouTube to see if any Dodge guys have a vid on it. I know it's not exactly the same but it looks close enough. I had no idea the shaft was tapered. Kinda a funky design if you ask me. https://youtu.be/DIBL4tIF6tE

74M35A2, I read and reread the other post you made about advancing the timing but I dont understand how you do it w/o removing the front cover. Advance by skipping a couple teeth on the pump gear?

Grendel, it doesn't look like there is any adjustment in the gears. Did you reclock the injection pump?

Has anyone advanced their timing yet? On the 8.3 it looks like you have to pull the serp belt and unbolt a huge cover plate on the front of the motor. I turned the top screw 1 full turn and its too smokey while off boost. I did 4 clicks on the gov springs but it couldn't adjust the idle down...

Thank you guys for the help. The thick wire ended up being the 12v 569 slow blower motor wire. I still don't know what the thin wire does. I assume its 6B but I can't figure out what it goes to. Same with GND A, nothing doesn't work without it.

I checked the TM's but I don't have the wire # because the metal tag is missing. There are three wires I am trying to figure out where they go. #1 has the metal tag and it says GND A. Obviously goes to the ground post on the battery. #2 is a thin gauge wire #3 is a heavy gauge wire Wanting...

Did you ever figure this out? I am having the same issue

In California I occasionally see a vehicle for sale privately(ebay or craigslist) that says the seller will give you their SF97. I know there are a lot of opinions and thoughts but I wondered if anyone KNEW for a fact that this can be registered through CA DMV or will the DMV not accept...

I wasn't holding S1 in the start position after then engine started. You need to keep it engaged until after the oil pressure gauges sees 40psi(I think 40)

Get comfortable and dont reply on what GP tells you. Mine took even longer than yours. Extremely frustrating

Keep both hands on the wheel while driving and keep your left elbow away from the door. If you hit a bump your elbow might smash into the door and it hurts like ****. Plan on 45mph the whole trip. Check all 6 tires for proper pressure. Dont let the e brake handle sodomize you when exiting the...

K15 has a diode that initially looks out is place but it's shown on the TM. It goes to K12 and checks out .480 volt on my dvom. After all that, still only 11v at the fuse when S1 is held on start

Wire 190 goes from S1 to K15 relay. I swapped the relays around but still no voltage at the fuse. The fuse wire is 141. It also goes to K15 and also goes to TB8 (in pic) which then 141 turns into a large diameter wire and goes directly to the generator.

I do get 24vdc on pin 7 when S1 is held in start. Also, with the battle short switch off, I get 11v at the fuse when holding S1 in start. With battle short on, I get no voltage at the fuse

I'm only getting 1.2vac on both sides of the fuse. I double checked the mag pickup. It reads 800omhs and 2.5vac while using the dead crank switch

The fuse in post #4 ohms out as good. I did not start the generator but with S1 in the run position there is no voltage at the fuse.