Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Exhaust work. Had two iterations in two days but turned out great. Had to make an adapter/ spacer plate and bend the original mount outboard a bit, but it works great. Looks good too.
A trimmed lower M35 radiator hose will work just fine, but I elected to go the modern commercial truck route and make a steel tube in order to use short silicone hose sections. Less failure prone.
Got ahead of myself and forgot to reply to you as well before I hit send.
That would be amazing. I'm nearing the end of my project but it still may prove useful, and I may do another one.
In the front my crank centerline is exactly 1" above the top surface of the frame rails. I just measured that for you because I don't have the radiator in right now. I did give it a slight rearward tilt to align the transmission output flange with the transfer case flange. I have no way to...
Ok, so the clutch! Here's what I used to mate the 6BT to the 3053A:
Flywheel: 3908574 -14", 173 teeth
Clutch: SPICER TYPE - 1.5", 10 SPLINE, 107621-1 ( under $300)
4 button ceramic, 500 Lb/ ft rated @ 30K lbs
Source- Phoenixfriction.com, $291+ $31 Shipping
Pilot bearing, two choices:
-6206 with...
I still can't believe nobody else has figured out how to do this without removing the springs or making a tool. There is a better way. You do have to unbolt the u-bolts, but you don't have to remove the springs. I'll be making a video on it sometime in the next couple months.
I'm not poking fun...
Lots of progress the past couple days. Fender primed and painted, exhaust started, radiator and intercooler bracket started, windshield frame painted and installed. Using full 4" exhaust from turbo to weather flapper, all joints welded except the two where the stainless flex joint meets hard...
Not all trucks had them not sure why. I had surmised at one time that one type of starter solenoid drew less amperage than another, but I have no data to support that other than noting that all the trucks without a solenoid have had the bell shaped solenoid, where all the cylindrical solenoid...
First thing I did to the engine was tab the dowel pin. I also set my timing to 16.5°, up from 11.5°. My pump is a 190 horsepower pump. I also installed 3200 governor springs, ground the fuel plate, and slid both the plate and the AFC housing all the way forward. No other power modification done...
Thought this was worth noting; as I've always suspected, my truck never went through a depot overhaul. Every dated component is dated 1969, down to individual wires in the harness ( which I have now replaced) and all three of my axle housings and Differentials are dated within one five day work...
A few. Always due to age, not rust or anything. Rubber has a lifespan and they are all real old. That's why tires are date coded. Nobody should be running on 20-30 year old tires, even if they were stored in a warehouse.
Check out my video series here to see what you're getting into.
Project "Snowball": https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLp1oqEXZZEvCTox_OlNpXxX2Mtj6VPfCa
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!