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Need a pigtail that your rv can plug into (can cannibalize a RV extension cord or get a rv outlet) You might just get the overkill award though :p

Theres another thread on that in here somewhere. Iirc you can loosen the nuts on the back, use contact cleaner and work it loose. The other thread is well detailed. The start circuit is rather easy to trace. Follow the diagram on the top of the control cube (if not look in the -12 TM Sent...

If all else fails use a 24 volt relay to send 12 volt to the solenoid Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Is it just a solenoid or is the starter fried? If you cant source repair parts for it(its not really impossible) , how about only having 12 volt trigger the starter? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Looking at the diagrams and it shouldnt, But i do recall a procedure for testing the alternator circuit with a resistor, SOOO it might not be the best idea to run it with no battery

Here is a thought get a meter that has a min max function. Use the wiring diagram to find a point about halfway in the circuit. Set the meter to min mode and if it still dips down its closer to the source. If it does not catch the flicker its closer to the load. Sent from my SM-G973U using...

The readings are on 1 generator right?

Its not just the head, theres a few other things that need swapped as well. The TMs should have the part numbers, just need to compare the two.

Ok so first thing use a multimeter ( or in a pinch a kill-a-watt meter) to read actual frequency ( the onboard meters can go bad) The slow shutdown sounds to me like the fuel solenoid in the IP is sticking. A video would probably be helpful in this case.

Possibly loosing a rectifier diode.

impacts on gear pullers (well gear pullers in general) have their own hazard. I had a coworker loose an eye to one using an impact. Next time try this, Load the gear puller until tight, apply heat to the item being pulled and tap with a hammer. when the gear puller loosens tighten and...

Do you have a load applied? Check your neutral, ground, and the bond in-between. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Glad to hear. My 004 has not seen alot of use, but when its needed its well worth the investment Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Glad to hear, my next suggestion would have been to check voltage on start attempts or preheat. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Thats the one. Thanks for posting

There is a diode that goes bad that can cause that. There is a correction for it, ill see if i can find it. In the mean time see if the starter solenoid is getting voltage when not commanded Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

11 to 13 then 11 to 15. 25 to 27 then 25 to 38 Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Heres where id start, do you have panel lights? When you turn the start switch to preheat do you hear a click? In run do you have fuel pumps? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

You can use 2 legs (it will be 208 volt so check your appliances, most are useable at 208) I would advise getting some kind of load (work light, heater etc) on l2.

Yes. But in a synchronization application buss can be grid or other live source. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk