Search results

did some research, talked to some injector people and came up with this. I took one pump apart not knowing if it ran or not. conclusion, it was put together correctly and was ok, but there is one mistake that can be made. The pump plunger can go in 180° rotationally out, so the dump groove...

the fuel just needs to be in the inlet side of the pump, it does not need any pressure, it just needs to be there and if the plunger is moving and not worn out and the dump sleeve is working it should pump. a few if's but it is a real simple process. when the plunger closes the supply port on...

the injection pumps are just gravity fed. if they don't pump there are very limited options of what is wrong. 1. the actual pump piston is stuck in the up position. 2. the fuel dump sleeve is rotated to 'no fuel' position. fuel rate is set with shims under injector body, just don't mix them up...

that is a grease seal, it was not a tight fit and you pushed it out with the grease

voltage adjustment is just a potentiometer, common for mil sets, rating should be stamped on the back, rad can be easily soldered, fuel pressure is only 4 to 5 psi so most any fuel line would work, just be sure it is a low pressure pump.

Water in the fuel is not as big an issue as the fuel becoming water, i.e. you suddenly get mostly or all water to the engine. The water can hit the hot injectors and blow them apart as it turns to steam.

The fuel you burn lubricates the injection pump plunger. As long as you filter the used oil in a centrifuge it should be fine. If you don't plan on filtering it, plan on buying new pumps. You would be much better off starting with hydraulic oil or ATF and filtering it.

I seriously doubt it is 4mm line, it is not used in this country. What I ordered is an exact replacement, but is nitrile. Probably no way to adapt as some nipples are 'made' on the parts. Small engine gas line may be usable, but does not last very long anyway, and I was afraid of that. Gates has...

The line in question is 4mm (5/32") and is next to impossible to get in the US, if you find a source let us know. I just ordered 30 ft from Europe so can sell some if anyone needs it. tom

Yes everything you say is right, but just putting a load on the circuit to reduce the voltage is not the best solution, MOVs are not used for things like this, and how do we really know that a 3 amp load is not going to eventually cause some issues? Also you now have a variable load on the...

90 PIV is nothing and I don't see how it could ever do any harm. Installing a MOV is just a waste of time and could even be a hazard. A MOV only reacts to spikes of milli second duration, not at all to steady state voltages, so the best thing it would do is over heat and catch fire. What year is...

I came to the conclusion that 88-20032 is the entire control box assy with all it's contents

For what is worth, i have seen a couple burned 802's and heard of others. While servicing one of mine it developed a fuel leak in the hose that is the return line from the injector pumps up to the injectors and back to the fuel tank. This is 4mm hose and when examined, it is rotten and cracked...

ok, so this is what i find on a 2006 unit. If I disable the fuel so it will not start and crank it, the quad connection to the reg has 0 volts. If I allow it to start the voltage never goes above 64 VAC while the field goes to 40+ volts while starting, but not while cranking, it is after the...

Z, I think the newest of my herd is a 2009 and I checked the Q1-Q2 voltage and it never went over 94 vac while cranking. I was just holding probes on the terminals, but will make some pigtails to check the voltages more accurately later. There are some labels, rand written in some other gens so...

the part number on mine is 19580 but on the board is 19583 so this may indicate a redesign. what other issue do they have?

upon reflection and some research i conclude the MOV will do nothing to help. if the starter is engaged and under 900 rpm, the flash circuit is on. prolonged cranking is the problem, so the fix is to repair whatever is making it hard to start. all of mine start in just a few seconds so the only...

here is a good site to get part numbers http://www.stategen.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/stategen_lister-petter_lpw-lpwt-lpws_parts.pdf another with newer part number supercessions, in this one the oil pressure relief is changed to a new number, maybe it is available as the old number was not...

So since the regulator board is easy to access, the diodes should be replaced with ones with a higher PIV and a MOV installed for future reliability.

yep, upper right is S-1 pin out. actual wiring is on left side of that same page. i could not find a page number in my manual!