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So you have the manual start handle and it won’t crank over by hand? Have you opened the unit up and looked for rodents? Water infiltration? Anything else that shouldn’t be?

There are two Bosch style relays left side. Have seen them go bad. Seen a bad emergency stop switch so ohm that out. Seen a lot of bad crimp connections. Wires pull right out. I would start there.

Have an 803a. One expansion plug is leaking. Was hoping someone had at least the hole measurement so I can get a replacement plug for it. Anyone replace one yet? TM part number is for a complete kit. Was hoping to get the one single piece. Thanks Will

I have found a lot of the r22 units come on fine but then fault because the condenser fan does not kick on. I usually jump the relay trigger off the compressor trigger so the condenser fan is on when the compressor is on.

The older alt with field sense you would leave it connected. If it was a newer style and the rear connection was marked ac then nothing should be connected there.

I would run a new one

You need 24v at the front terminal on the regulator to excite the alternator. There is an excitation relay in the panel. It is possible that someone switched the front and back leads. The rear terminal should be a field sense on the older alternators but it’s an ac voltage output on the newer...

No. Only disconnect the front regulator lead and take a voltage measurement on that wire with the engine running. Do not disconnect anything else. You should check all of your battery terminals and alternator connections make sure they are on tight.

With the engine running, take a measurement of the front terminal on the regulator wire. It has to be disconnected from the regulator to take the measurement.

I know people usually swap the whole pumpkin because thats what was available. Can ring and pinion sets be made up and swapped in?

Fdecu will not run on a 10k anything. It needs at least the 15k. The newer 5ton ac units will start and run on my 803a. Trying to start a fdecu in ac mode results in a short circuit fault every time with the 10k.

Maybe the polarity box. Under the spare tire. Works with the regulator to control charging and cab power from the batts go thru it.

Cab power goes thru the reverse polarity box. Its basically a diode array. You get 1/3 to 1/2 volt drop thru it. So the cab voltage will be slightly lower than the alternator output. But I would check all cables and connections. I would replace the dash power relay. I would make sure your...

If you step on the brake and air leaks out the tpv vent hole, then it’s just a cracked diaphragm. You don’t have to rebuild the entire thing. Mark lines and take pics before you take if off. The diaphragms are each under a top piece with 4 torx screws holding it on.

Remove the gladhand covers. Make sure no insects made nests in the holes.

They are trying to drive up prices in the name of profit. It works on the trucks and gens that stuff is in demand. This wont work for the parts no one needs them until some gov contractor decided they need a few. GL tried to maximize profit. But you cant just keep holding onto the stuff week...

If its lmtv based you could try using an separate 24v source to excite the alternator. Common issue on lmtvs.

I dont remember it offhand. Can look it up eventually. Hard to find part though.

None left

The unloader on top of the head gets stuck. From sitting the lubricant dries up and becomes hard chunks. You can rebuild the unloader on the truck.