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I wouldn't want one half ton...things ride to smooth...or loose....I think the front grill guard looks like the square body cucv with the exception of how it mounts to the bumper...have you checked out hillbilly wizard up here in Pa...they are making weld together kits that you could probably...

Update to the madness is the drivers floor is to the point of one more coat of farmer paint and the seat goes in! Son spent hours welding and grinding and cleaning and painting today...you get the point...I took the drivers door out to tap out a few dents and remove the door lock and found this...

Live very close to a bunch of companies that make big stuff too...Bradley etc...the base is where I got my 1009 from so it has not gone far from home.

aspwholesale.com has what you need...I just got 2 kit from them last week.

looks like you have a great burb to start with...very nice looking plus 3/4 ton is a good combo.

I think in some parts of the world they are...I know the supplier of the local base...they had 2 pallets of them...I paid not much more for the pair than if i would have bought one big agm or red top...they get a bulk price on them...nice thing as well since they go through so many these were...

First install from the surplus store! Covers for the battery ends...it's the simple things...tires on the way! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

That's what I have! I only have a 80lb bottle. The place I got it from has a bunch...only 33$ each! Not sure if I can post where on this thread though. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Yeah and I need 2!! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Been pretty busy this week and used an entire bottle of gas welding in the floor...it's coming out great! I did find a surplus store that had the lower crank pulley NOS...Very NOS...I opened one box, got 3, and it looks great...be nice not having the rusted out pulley come apart on me! Still...

yes if you can find the 6t batteries over there that is the stock designed replacement choice but if not the group 31s will work fine for sure...which brand is over there I have no idea so you'd have to research that for what's available...the 6t is very available here though!! I couldn't...

My guess is the control board isn't getting key on power and getting power at the start position with the key...or possible bad board or the start switch on the column is worn or is out of adjustment...sounds like it wants to work but not at the right time...could check with a test light if it...

I just got 2 rebuild kits online from alternator and starter parts wholesale...I called and he had them in stock...not very expensive and came with the bearings and all the internal parts.

If it's a stock electrical system check the relay under the dash...it may be stuck or about to be...beware that it may stick on and keep turning over the engine until the batteries die or it catches fire if it starts...search here for doghead mod it'll show where the relay is. Sent from my...

TRUE!!! I know they won't carry the link for sure and be honest not many parts stores do either!! I like the 7 11...good stuff there...if you have the fuse and are close to the market problem but if not the link wins.

I thought since the starter is 24 volt it would need that to get going but if it still works with 12 to get going that works too!! I need a slave cable!! I don't like jump starting unless I absolutely have to...I don't like to full field the charging system for as long as it would take to...

the link has one advantage on the side of the road if it fails the pull test...can strip it back and reconnect it so it works again...a fuse needs a paperclip or hopefully a correct fuse replacement on hand...big thing though if there is a failure of a fuse something is not right and needs fixed...

ut My test for fusible links....pull...then pull harder!! I can't count how many times they test ok since they touch a little bit and get the light to work but won't flow enough current...dang things....I bet that's where the smoke went since it won't charge...alts not getting stator...

My truck I just got does that now...when I first start it gen 2 light stays on until I rev it a little and the volt gauge is on the line! I'll be doing that one and see if it goes green...might do both just to make sure! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I'm not exactly sure where but it sounds like something is grounded out and my guess is in the alternator pack...a diode probably is not stopping power flowing one way so when you turn off the key it's allowing power through for the lights but not when running because it's trying to make...