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well, it has been done in reverse, a 3116 has been put into an A2 and that requires all the same sort of changes. even for a bobber the od kit gives better choice of off road and on road gearing since it only changes 5th gear. tom

i think it is still WAY cheaper in the long run to put a 3053 trans in. heck it would be cheaper even if you bought my od gear set as well. assuming you can do the work yourself and i assume you can as the r&p swap gets real $$$ if you have to pay someone to do it. we already know that there are...

so my guess is that it was parked for a long time, but that really does not matter now. the next thing to check would be that the fuel plunger moves up and down and is not stuck in the up position. it is a concern if things were stuck as they should not have been. remove the plug in the center...

are you using new seals? by that i mean NOT new old stock which in the case of seals can be a bad idea. my money is on the vent, but that can be easily verified, don't just assume, check it.

the very worst is quite easy, remove the 2 bolts for the front mount and slide the front of the engine over to the right. the rad is on the engine mount so it goes as well. you only need to move it a little, maybe an inch, and not in every case.

i was not aware the A3 came with a generator?? almost positive it did not.

of course all the components are available or you can just buy the whole kit...........

when you remove the shutoff cover, one of the exposed gear teeth will have a scribed line and was originaly colored red. turn engine until it lines up with pointer.

my thought is that if it ran and was parked for even 2 years, it would start right up like it was the next day. have you removed the shutoff cover? you can run it with the cover off, you will just need to pull the linkage to the rear to shut it off. be sure the linkage is very free, if it...

you need to do a lot of reading first and be sure you understand what you are doing or you will be in way over your head. the best way to turn the engine is with the trans in 5th and the transfer in neutral, and a bar in the u-joint. line up the red tooth with the pointer and then DO NOT TURN...

running a deuce out of feul is VERY hard on the ip.

as chris said, if you have not yet removed the shutoff cover, that is the most likely thing to check first. be sure the linkage is real free. second check that the plunger in center of HH is moving when cranking. contrary to popular belief, sitting is not, IMHO, a problem. i have started deuce...

so i hope by now you realize that your description of setting the timing is missing one key point and that is which revolution of the ip were you on? that scribe mark on the drive gear comes up twice per firing cycle, one is correct the other is 180 out. just as the crank turns two revolutions...

well you should not be confused, what you did was replace the HH. different from assymbling an untimed engine. the key here is that the red tooth is not a timing mark, it is a removal mark for the HH. to replace the HH set the red tooth in line with the arrow and then DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE...

sorry chris, but it does have a LOT to do with installation, just NOT timing. that is because the IP shaft turns at crank speed while the HH turns at cam speed. so what you have is what someone said earlier. 1: crank on correct timing mark AND #1 valves closed so we know it was on...

but the 'or' is incorrect, there are 3 'ands' that must be followed to assure correct timing.

of course everyone knows that there are now gears available to do what the OP wanted to do, more overdrive.

so i think you are saying the trans is out. well, take the clutch out and see if it is backwards. also sounds like you must have the short driveshaft to the transfer out. feel the joints to see how they are, smooth tight, no play in anything. have you checked the joints in the rear main...

i guess i don't understand then why you are asking about servo style brake shoe mounting. the first thing anyone should consider is going to split brake system as the single is just not safe. if you then want more stopping power, just increase the pressure.

if all you want to do is decrease the required pedal pressure, just reduce the diameter of the air piston on the side of the airpack. it is a fixed pressure regulator, and the balance values can be changed easily by pressing in a sleeve and installing a smaller piston. results in much lower...