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if it will downshift into 2nd at 5 mph smoothly it is probably ok

there is no water pump to block as i recall. you just need a new pump. if it comes out behind the pulley and in front of the pump, that is the shaft seal, just like any water pump. tom

if you mean at a complete stop, sometimes it won't go into 2nd, yes that is completely normal. just release the clutch slightly while pulling it into 2nd and it will go right in. takes just a little practice to not let the clutch out too far. tom

$750 is too much unless it comes with a real good wtty.

the gear you show is 5th and is bad. the rollers you show, there are 14 of them, and it is completely normal for them to fall out, it is the only way when you take it apart. i suspect you need many other parts but the only way you will know is to have someone familiar with the trans inspect each...

it 'could' easily require 100 to 125 lbs pull on the end of a 4 ft bar, maybe even more. with the top off put it in 2 gears at once to lock it. tom

just drain it and put in whatever you want. i use 40wt motor oil for less drag and easier shifting. tom

yes, a BIG headache as it probably will never want to come out again. but since you can turn the disk you can at least put it togeather. with the engine not on tdc, but on the correct timing mark for its type, i.e. ldt, and on compression stroke, the red marked gear will be one tooth to the...

dang, so many problems!! first the droop would never have anything to do with starting. droop is measured at 1500 rpm, i usually just take the droop adj screw out, it will have better mid range power. next and be sure to believe this, the red painted tooth with the scribe line has NOTHING to do...

with a good tank pump, the system is mostly self bleeding. just crack the plug on top of final filter. then crack injector lines until air is out while cranking. everyone should keep in mind a new surplus HH may be BAD! it is surplused for a reason and i have seen many that would not work...

there are many threads here about installing the HH. you want TDC which is on the compression stroke. way too many little details for me to write again, but if you want PM me for a number to call. tom

exhaust stroke?? no, that is wrong. really, find someone local who can help you before it gets worse.

if you line the red tooth up with the pointer, it will not run. that IS NOT a timing mark. i am sorry to say, many people who attempt to repair the IP just don't know what they are doing and don't read the manual first. it will take someone who really understands the system to properly time the...

the fuel lever and rod must move very freely. do not try to start it if they do not, bad things may happen. you do need some small pressure at cranking speed to get fuel into the plunger, so the tank pump or the booster pump must be working

the fuel supply pump also called booster pump. remove shaft and replace seal, about $6. to check it just pull it out and let it hang on the lines while running tank pump. tom

the booster pump is item AA in the pic

fuel coming out the engine breather??? it's on top of the engine, so the crankcase and engine would have to be full!!! remove the shut off cover and just turn on the tank pump. do you have a LARGE amount of fuel there? if yes, o ring bad or missing. if no the seal on the booster pump is the...

just a note as this will apply to anyone removing the radiator. it is not necessary to remove the fan, as you tilt the rad forward, rotate the blades and it will come right out. i say this because it looks like removing the fan bolts would not be real easy with the rad in place. of course this...

this is simply not true. there is NO downside to the trans mod that i am aware of. it only changes the now somewhat useless 5th into what is in effect a real od. less money than tires and wheels, easy to install.

360 out is the same as 0 out, so yes it would run fine