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Anyone know the drive pressure ratios for the different turbos?

Given a difference in efficiency for the two motors, you can't get more boost without first adding more fuel. The larger turbo would most likely make LESS boost. But it would be more efficient at it, so the temps would be cooler. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to put it on, but I run the EGT...

A turbo can only push as much air as dictated by the fuel put into the motor. Besides, doesn't the bigger turbo from the LDS have a wastegate? If so, set to a safe boost level and enjoy.

Bet the wrecker will go for a pretty penny. Cable or no cable. Too bad, because I could really USE one around here. Wouldn't be another lawn ornament that rarely gets used.

Wow! That was more then all but one of the 818's! Definitely too much for my tastes for a deuce! The 818s went from 2600 to 5650 (running, hard top, looked like a NEW motor.) Decent prices for the 818s, I just didn't have that last bit of 'extra' cash right now.

Saw those, I was going for the 818's. Curious to see what they went for though.

Yeah, I noticed your setup only required turning it 1/8 of a turn for a good amount of change. And I agree, it is pretty darn easy to adjust these. No different cam plates, performance boxes, etc. Timing would make another difference, but I don't feel i would be worth the effort for 90% of us.

Yeah, I searched for it, and I have read your thread a few times now. I rarely have high EGTs in the lower rpms. Mainly just at the higher rpms on hills do my EGTs climb. And I have the main fuel adjustment turned up a BIT. I would like to adjust the droop screw for better low end, and maybe...

You ever stick your hand near the intake when the engine is running? That thing will pull in a lot of air with a SERIOUS suction before it will stop the motor. And that is at idle! No way a normal plastic bag would work. And it only takes a small hole to allow enough air for it to keep running...

They can be rebuilt. Also a good time to change the compressor wheel around for a bit more efficient boost while they are there. :) Someone on the board offers this exact service.

Ok, very little information about messing with the droop screw. Looks like some of the newer IPs have removed the droop screw all together. I already have the EGT and boost gauges installed, so what would be the drawbacks of basically removing it? Means getting more fuel in the lower rpms, but...

2,650 rpm, same as the deuce. Unless it has the LDS-465-2 motor, then I think they have a higher redline?

Looks like a nice slam bang dump. They have the trailer to go with it?

If you tow a civilian vehicle with it, the temp tags technically won't cover it. They are supposed to be for that vehicle only. A trailer is ok if it is supposed to be part of the vehicle (think logging truck, etc). It will also draw the eye of LEOs. Do what I do, have a second person drive the...

This the one? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=20275&highlight=brake+controller

Actually, having both a discussion on the issue, AND the correct TM is a HUGE thing for me. When I SEARCH, I find a lot of posts that say to search. And some give a little anecdotal information on either what is wrong, or how to fix it. This thread was great. It gave a decent description of the...

When you have the tired fully aired up like that, they won't flex enough to warm up enough to get the flat spot out. Try letting a bit of air out of the tires and try it again. 30 to 45 psi would be a good start. Or, based on the weight, number of tires, and road conditions, just air them down...

Thanks for the pictures. I will be getting one soon! I just wanted to see how they fit, and looked, on an actual truck.

The 60-751 kit has the correct end attachment that fits the blades correctly. But it doesn't have the correct fitting for the shaft... I got the 750 kit, then made the end fittings wider (welded on extra, then grind flat).

Frantz is the TP based one. I actually have one installed on my dodge/cummins truck. Works well actually.