Search results

Figured I'll bring a proper closure to this thread. I sold one 802 already, so it unfortunately won't be featured in this piece. But I do have 4 units running and making power along with a 803 cousin. Here they are: Starting them up and shutting them down, one at a time: All 5 of them...

I just got done installing a 2x2A Noco on my 803. And also went for the Noco receptable: While I was at it, I installed a 60A receptable: Used 4 Gauge wiring.

Chased that one thread that needed it and re-installed the intake and the wiring: After completing the wiring, I flipped S1 to pre-heat while having a voltmeter on the tip of #4 pre-heater. It started out at ~25.5V and over the following 10 seconds, slowly dropped to about 23.5V. I then...

Yep, 12V heaters. 2 in series on a 802, 2 pairs of 2 in series on a 803. 12V is stamped on the side of the housing. So 288 Watts per heater for a total of 576 Watts on a 802, and 1,152 Watts on a 803. The 0.5 Ohm I'm getting is on each heater not connected to anything else, manifold on my...

The preheaters are 12V each and wired in series. 12V across 0.5 Ohm is 24A and 288 watts. That sounds reasonable. If they are supposed to be 5 Ohms, that would only produce about 29 watts per preheater @ 2.4A, which seems on the low side. The gauge of the preheater wires coming from K18...

I rechecked the resistance and I guess I just wasn't patient enough last night. After waiting 5 seconds or so, the readings on all 4 preheaters settled to 0.5 Ohms, so the same you are seeing @loosegravel I need to chase the shaft on one of the preheaters: The other 3 are fine...

I’m 99% sure it was S1 since it won’t spring back to OFF after using pre-heat. So when shutting down the unit, one can easily turn it past OFF and it will be stuck in pre-heat. That said, I’ll be sure to check K18 before putting it all back together again.

Finally had a chance to pop the roof and have a closer look at the intake manifold. After removing the muffler, this is what I was greeted with: #1 and #2 took the brunt of it. Closeup of #2: I was able to unscrew #1 and #4 nuts pretty easily, but #2 and #3 required that I hold the...

I just checked S1 again, and what do you know, it will get stuck in Pre-Heat is not careful. It also feels real mushy. See below: So when I shut it down yesterday, it more than likely got stuck on the Pre-Heat position. So I'll start by swapping it out with the S1 from my spare set, which...

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be sure to pull the intake to make sure none of the heaters dropped any fragments. Good to know pre-heat always come on during cranking, that would explain how K18 closed in the first place. I guess that means the heaters stayed on while the set was running...

I picked up a 803 a few months ago in good condition with a little over 5,500 hours on it. Runs good and I load tested it last weekend and it held a 12 kW load without breaking a sweat. Fired it back up yesterday and ran it for a few minutes and then shut it down again. Temps were in the 40's...

The non R batteries work just fine. You just run the “jumper cable” between the batteries in front of the engine instead of behind it. The battery clamp bolts fit through the holes on the terminals without having to drill the holes larger too. The only minor annoyance was that the nuts...

Picked up 6 of the U1-7s today. They actually had 16 of them in stock and 3 of the U1R-7s, but I had already purchased the 6 online for less than the price in the store ($29.97). I'm pretty sure they will work just fine. Got them charging now: They are bigger than I thought and almost is...

Got the 106B wire extended so that it would reach the fuse block. Unit was completely dead what I tried to start. Tracked that down to a bad CB1 breaker. I bypassed is and was able to fire up the unit. I had my meter connected in series with the ammeter but, alas, I get 0 mA when putting a...

Got the control box removed and replaced with my spare. While I had it out, I verified that all 12 wires from the genhead are wired correctly to TB3: After transferring the voltage regulator to the other control box along with the fuse mod, I discovered that wire 106B (# 8 ) was too short to...

Man I want some of those Walmart U1R-7s! Went to walmart.com and of course they are not available at my local Supercenter nor any of the centers nearby. How did you "order" them? EDIT: They have the U1-7s. From your pics, it looks like those would work since the battery cables are long...

Yes, I have used that load bank on both another 802 and a 803, and in both cases, the readings on the load bank digital display corresponded to the %Load meter readings. I pulled P6 from J6 and sprayed both insides with contact cleaner really well and plugged and unplugged several times. No...

Yours looks to be 2x4 count for each CT vs. the 2x8 count on mine. That would make sense since a 803 makes twice the power of a 802, so half the windings to get to 100% on a 1A ammeter. Here's mine: (before I cut the zip ties to count the turns)

Ok, I went through and verified the paths marked in green on the below schematic: I also counted the number of turns of the wires through CT2 and the total is 16. I'm 99% certain the count is 8 each of 002A and 008A as per the diagram below: I removed the wires from A1, B1 and C1 and got...

This is a continuation of the Picked up 6 MEP-802A gensets and will be documenting making them all runners here thread. This thread is specifically about the unit where the ammeter is showing a very low reading. I know the ammeter itself is ok since I swapped it with the one in my 803 set...