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We have a member here that is trying to sell a nice looking 802. He's down to $2,900 and no takers. 400 hours. Not sure what year.

These are really nice too: https://www.ebay.com/itm/393256256826?hash=item5b8fe6453a:g:hLkAAOSw45lggKs7 Definitely on the pricey side.

Awesome. Thanks guys. Order placed. Didn't even notice there was a crack in the tank until I stole it from my spare 802 and moved it to my 803, that was missing the tank completely.

I have a crack at the top of my overflow tank near where top fitting is located. What type of glue/adhesive would you guys recommend for fixing it? There are lots of choices out there, like Gorilla super glue gel, Loctite super glue plastics bonding system, Gorilla epoxy and J-B Weld plastic...

Was looking at the piston and rod wear limits table: As I gap the new rings, am I correct in assuming I should aim for between 0.01 and 0.02 for all 3 rings on each piston?

Great advice Chris. I'll be sure to follow that break-in process on this set once I get it going. Will be sure to do that to the other 2 sets that I honed back in 2014, but have only run one maybe 30 minutes tops so far back in 2014. The 2nd one I honed back than has also only run for maybe...

Got the crankcase cleaned out: I pulled the pistons. The top ring was seized in both pistons. Here's #1 after prying it out: And #2 still on the piston, but freed up: The middle ring was partly stuck on both pistons and the lower ring was free on both. I'm going to clean out the...

Got the side cover off: Gasket stayed with the cover and is in one piece still: It is separating in a couple of places. I'll see if I can carefully remove it and re-use it. If not, I'm thinking I'll just use some make a gasket silicone sealer. It is very nasty inside the crankcase...

I decided to tear into the 802 that would crank but not start, not even with ether. So compression was likely too low. Muffler and intake removed: I heard something rattle in the intake tube and found a nut in it. Also found 2 small metal pieces in the front intake of the head itself: I...

Pretty crappy weather here in VA today, but I did manage to get the new hinge bolted on: That fresh new paint makes the rest of the set look pretty dull, lol. Didn't really want to start load testing the 3 running 802 sets to make a note of anything left that needs to be addressed with them...

Ah thanks. Wasn't even looking at the voltage. Well, in that case, it looks like the slow boat from China white ones from the auction site is the best bet as others have pointed out already...

Would these be proper green LED replacements for the 3 half moon lights...

Got a chance to load test this set with the Stator swapped in from the spare unit. At first it was smoking a little since the new rings had not seated yet, but that cleared up after a few minutes under load. I didn't do extended load testing since I didn't have the top covers on it yet. It...

Those are very cool looking digital gauges! Might consider those for my "keeper" 803 and 802 sets, depending on how many other failed gauges I have in the other sets I'm fixing up.

You guys rock! Picked up the voltmeter from Newark.

Turns out, except for the ammeter, all the gauges in my spare set are shot. And the ammeter shows that the alternator isn't charging the batteries while the set is running, so I'll be swapping that over from the spare set as well. At least the Frequency Transducer is working as I'm seeing...

Got the switch put back in and wired. I verified I had continuity where expected on TB3. Fired it up, and what do you know, I'm finally making power! Measured 240V across L1 and L3 and 120V between those two and Neutral on the main output terminals. None of the gauges work, so that's next...

Filing all the contact points did the trick! At first it didn't, but after keeping at it for a good 30 seconds per contact set, I started showing continuity. So I did all 48 contact pairs (46 actually since 19/20 is blank). After doing them all, I tested for continuity in all settings, and...

No luck spraying into the contact openings. So I opted to pull the switch. Here's one side: Other side: Close up of 8 in the "closed" position: And open position: Check out the rust dust below where I had the switch when just doing a single position 3 to position 1 change...

Thanks for those pics Kurt! I can see where I should concentrate my spraying of the contact cleaner. I'm going to keep at that for a bit longer before contemplating tearing one apart. That's a lot of parts per layer!