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@Daybreak Yep, PF 0.80 and I agree that 12kw load is 100% That pic from from my 803 with the ammeter from my 802. I'm running the JD Break-In Plus oil that I believe you recommended in another thread. @Guyfang Sorry for continuing posting to this thread. Now that all the sets are running...

Fired the unit up and ran it for a few minutes @ 2.26 kW to warm it up. I then brought it up to a 4.1 kW load for break-in run #2 (~80%). These are the voltage readings I got: Resistor 2.26 kW 4.10 kW R10 0.66 V 1.36 V R11 0.49 V 1.34 V R12 2.80 V 4.96 V R13 1.50 V 1.83 / 1.20 V...

Kurt, I think you hit the nail on the head (again)! I cleaned the contacts on S8 13/14 and here are my before and after readings: Resistor Before After R10 0.8 1.0 R11 1.7 5.0 R12 0.8 0.8 R13 7.6 1.7 Before cleaning S8 13/14, I see seeing about 10 Ohms across the contacts and 0...

Wonder if there was/is some sort of imbalance issue? Would probably be a really good idea to replace the rotor bearing as well. That drive disc is pretty stout, so I'm very surprised to see it fail like that. How many hours on that set?

Yesterday I was pretty beat and didn't even think about measuring the burden resistor values on my other sets, all set to 120/240 mode and AMVM in the 3 o'clock position. Here goes: 802 with issue (I redid the measurements this morning) 803 802 802 802 R10 1.0 0.8 0.8 0.8 2.1 R11 2.8...

That would be awesome! I did unsolder the wire going to the left side of R11. It measures 7.5 Ohm like it should. These are the B1 and B2 terminals for CT2, right?

Thanks for the link @m32825 I knew I had seem something in another thread. 1/4" aluminum it is, and mounted on the backside. Or, I might try recessing the aluminum plate inside the existing housing to keep it as recessed as possible. Something like this:

Thanks for the diagram Kurt! I traced everything through and the path through S8 and the 2 paths through S6 both check fine. I re-measured the voltage across R11 and I'm getting 0.72 volts AC, give or take. I scraped the solder join a little with my probe and started getting a reading. So it...

Ok, with my meter in series with the ammeter, my readings are essentially the same as before. I get basically 0 volts AC across all the burden resistors under load. Here's the same 4,100 watt load as before with the Fluke 75 across the R10 burden resistor: I get the same 0 volts AC reading...

Yep, CB1. Silly question, but you did put the dead crank switch back into NORMAL position and not OFF, right?

I went ahead and ordered that set after researching pricing some more on those Hubbell type connectors, and that is actually a good price. Came in yesterday. It almost fits in the outlet hole with no mods: I'm thinking the easiest way to retrofit this receptacle, is to fab up a flat...

Drained the water this morning, added an expansion tank, and filled with proper coolant fluid. Connected my Fluke in place of the ammeter to see what readings I would get under a decent load. After letting the unit warm up to operating temp, I started out with 4,100 watts: And my reading...

Check to see if the little round 7.5A breaker popped. It’s right above the round grey fuse behind the fold down control panel.

Right on. I'll switch to A on the meter and of course connect the + probe to the A input and see what I get. Haven't looked at the TM yet regarding this issue as I haven't run into it before, but after observing the reading I get on the Fluke, that will be my next stop.

I reinstalled the thermostat and all seems well. This is about 5 minutes after starting it back up before adding a load: (hour meter at 7502.7) I swapped in a good coolant temp. gauge and also replaced the oil pressure sender. In the pic above, temp has not quite reached 180F yet. Video...

I do have an IR thermometer. I'll be sure to have that close by during the next run! Pulled the thermostat and it does open. Here it is compared to the one from my spare 802. (The one on the right is from the spare set) Dropped them both in a pan and brought to above 180F: The one...

@nextalcupfan I appreciate the link and made a note for future reference! The crank case gasket and head gaskets finally showed up yesterday: I decided to just go ahead and get a new crankcase gasket after all even though the original looked ok. Cheap insurance I suppose. 2 different...

That's good to know. Looks like new ones are available for about the same amount: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253245974181?epid=910864029&hash=item3af6a2e6a5:g:iJsAAOSwPpZaAMf8 When I get a chance, I might tinker with the one I have that doesn't put out voltage.

I got the exact same readings on a 802 I was working on last week when probing the plus and minus terminals on the alternator. Ammeter showed it not charging while running, but did move slightly into the discharge section with the fuel pump running. Swapped in a spare alternator and I started...

Picked up a 2000 802 with 32 hours on it last month from a Marketplace add. Paid $900 for it knowing it ran but didn't make power. Swapping out the voltage regulator took care of it, but it also needs a head gasket as I noticed a coolant drip going down the outside of the block. Still not a...