Search results

I have been spraying the outside of S8 with this: And worked the switch probably over 100 times at this point, but still get those messed up readings. I guess the cleaner is not getting into the switch itself and I need to take it apart to clean the contacts? Is there a thread on here of...

I tested the S8 switch on the spare set, and it also fails to show continuity between terminals 7 & 8 in position 3. So 3 failed S8 switches on a sets. What are the odds.... Here's a quick video I made of the S8 switch on the set I'm working on: I start out with a short (yellow test leads)...

Thanks Kurt. Yep, that's definitely where I was probing. Tomorrow I'm going to probe the spare unit to see what kind of readings I get on the S8 switch in it. Hopefully it will actually show the proper readings. On the unit I'm working on, the readings between 7 & 8 are: S8 Position...

Ok, I must not be reading the schedule right, or both this 802 and the one sitting next to it (the one with no/low compression that won't fire). When I put an ohm meter between 7-8 or 9-10 or 13-14 I show an open circuit with S8 in position 3 on BOTH sets. What are the odds that both have...

I hear you Guy and I visually verified that all the jumpers and wires match what I have on the set sitting next to this one. But I'll remove all wires from S8 and go through the settings to see why I'm not observing the continuity I should according to the schedule. View of the AC switching...

Yep, I put a new bearing on when I put it together the first time a few weeks ago. Got the replacement stator installed with the existing rear bell support that is not cracked (and the new bearing). Rear end almost slid back on all the way: Just making sure the wires and fuel lines got in...

Got the spare 802 pulled out of storage. Parts have already been picked from it. It has the cleanest harness of all the units I have though: Got the rear section removed along with the stator: Only took about 20 minutes on this unit. Of course it helped that the front section had...

Got the stator off: And this area looks pretty crispy: Similar to what you were showing earlier Kurt.

Thanks for the heads up Light on the stators. Once I get down to the last unit, I'll weigh getting what I need to make it a runner, vs. parting it out, or just keeping it for the 2 units I plan to keep long time (a 802 and a 803). Good idea Guy about starting a separate thread for the next one...

I already have a parts machine, and I just tested the windings on the stator on it, and they are all good. So I'll swap the stator from it over onto this one. The thing that sucks is that I just put this machine together and had the stator separated from the engine and I let it go because the...

I found some old terminal blocks I had laying around and connected to 12 leads from the stator to it. I then measured between them all again, and the only windings that are showing close to a short is T9 - T12. I show an open circuits between all the leads and ground. Started the unit and it...

With leads 1 - 12 still disconnected from TB3, I tested between A1, B1 and C1 and ground. All permutations. Everything was open EXCEPT I was showing 0.436 KOhm between C1 and ground. I traced it down to being the thin wire on C1 (003F12). I also tested resistance between T1 - T12 on TB3, all...

Thanks guys. I have no chafing of the 12 wires. They are routed through 2 loops with rubber linings and not touching the metal at all. I pulled all 12 leads from the main stator and measured the following resistances: T1-T4 0.4 Ohm T2-T5 0.4 Ohm T3-T6 0.5 Ohm T7-T10 0.5 Ohm T8-T11...

I looked at S8 and one thought I had was that perhaps that switch has an issue. After all, this particular unit had no top panel and had been sitting outside, which is why all the fasteners are rusted. It doesn't look that bad from the outside: The switch does turn between the 3 positions...

Yikes, that does NOT look good. I started looking at S6 and the first wire I looked at was 171A. It was wired to terminal 32, which also had a black jumper wire going to terminal 30: Looking at the wiring diagram, I see the following: So as I check each wire, it's ok to find a jumper...

So I got the new batteries in, but the posts are way to small. The positive terminal is quite a bit smaller than "standard" and the negative is way smaller. I think maybe this battery is meant for a Prius or something? Anyway, I was able to clopper something together with some battery posts...

Thanks. Yeah, I guess the main difference is that the 1 only has a 30Ah capacity if it needs to charge the battery, where the 2 can handle a 40Ah. Most car batteries that I have seen aren't rated based on Ah, just CCA. Anyway, picked up a pair of 1s.

You da man Kurt! I pulled P5 and pins 1 and 2 showed open. So I popped the end bell cover what what do you know, the stator leads were loose/disconnected from the small terminal block right there at the end bell. Removed and inserted all 4 leads a few times to make sure they were all the way...

K15 was NOT moving when moving S1 from RUN to START. I swapped out K15 from my spare set, and now it is moving. Voltage between A1 terminal 5 & 6 is now around 22 volts when holding S1 in START. So based on what you said earlier, this seems like an exciter issue? I guess there are 2...

Looks like an issue with the flashing circuit. I get right around 0 VDC in both RUN and START positions with the set running.