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So the wires all appear to be hooked up correctly. The function of the switch also appears to be correct. I see 0.1 Ohm between the 4 common pins and 3 when in PRIME & RUN and also 7 when in START.
HOWEVER, I get 32 Ohms between any of the common pins and the GND stud on the flip down panel...
I decided the "cheat" and very carefully trimmed just enough of the tube seal to allow the IP base plate to drop down against the block, being careful to catch each trimmed off piece so it didn't fall down into the block.
Turned the IP counterclockwise against the rack and snug up the clamp...
Thanks for those links! Will have to look into that Titan for sure!
So back on the 802s. I pulled the #2 IP from the 2007 that only fires on that can intermittently. Didn't really feel or see any issue with it, but swapped it for one from my spare unit. Went to put in back in and noticed...
Very nice! Like your counterweight setup. That 3 point quick hitch is nice too. Really like the adjustable height center point. I looked at those for my big tractor (cat 2) but they were all fixed height of about 15" or so and my implements are all over the place.
I'll see your 802A and...
That makes perfect sense Guy. I just assumed that since it was a 22 year old set with 32 hours on it, it would have been reset, But like you said, it could have been deployed with a unit that never used it. Unlike all my other sets, this one didn't have any shipping labels on it indicating it...
That's very impressive @Ray70 ! Like farther like son, lol. Grapples are cool.
Got the big grapple on the 5085M:
I had a WR Long grapple on my 4700:
Since I got that first one, I wondered how I ever got along without one!
Those are nice machines! I had a 4700 that I got back in 2000 that served me well for 12 years. Then in 2012, I got a 5085M when I started clearing land and logging trees. But it was way too big for stuff around the house and moving things around near and in the shop. I got the 1025R last...
That's a John Deere 1025R with a 120R loader and 260B backhoe. Great little tractor. It is borderline able to move a 802A around however. Max it can raise it is a little over 2 feet. But given that this little tractor only weigh about 1,450 lbs. by itself, that's to be expected.
In addition...
Yep, A1 had failed in a matter that did not take the quad windings with it, or it was swapped out at some point as Guy pointed out. Thanks for the detailed description of the A1 failure scenarios Kurt! Interesting that this set only has 32 hours on it, is a 2000 model, and was never reset.
So...
Took the newly aquired 2000 unit with 32 hours on it outside this morning and drained the old fuel. It smelled pretty nasty.
After filling with fresh fuel and priming for about 5 minutes, I attempted to start it:
So pretty rough at first, which was to be expected. It was also below...
It does NOT have a data plate indicating it was resent. Of all my 802 units, only one has such a plate, yet they all have the fuse mod except for the 2008 one with the cracked piston.
Updated table showing current status of each set:
Unit
Acquire Date
Build Date
Hours
Cost
Engine ID Tag...
So today didn't quite go the way I had planned. Early this morning, around 5am, I left the house and drove up to MD, North of Baltimore, to look at a 2000 802A. It supposedly ran, but was not making power. About half way there, around the time I entered MD, I started to feel a little bit of a...
Thanks Ray. Great tips. If it is indeed only firing on one cylinder, that would make the RPMs just over 1,400, which would be consistent with what your trained ear is telling you. I had the throttle/frequency adjustment pretty close to the lowest setting in that 2nd video.
I'll pull it out...
Good point Guy. You're right, it could have shaken a LOT worse and by the 2nd clip, it was actually relatively smooth.
I ran a spectrum analyzer on the 2nd clip and I picked up an exhaust frequency of about 47 Hz.
So using this formula:
N = f (120/V)
Where N is RPM, f is frequency and V is...
They are indeed! After a 7 year hiatus.
So I got the low voltage at the "I" terminals sorted out. The 24V feeder from #3 on the S1 master switch was wired to the S terminal on M5 (fuel level indicator) and that was pulling down the voltages on the other "I" terminals, since they are all wired...
Thanks for that. Definitely starts a lot smoother than mine. Kind of hard to make out the rpms from the audio alone, but I think mine is in the ballpark.
I started checking voltages on the "I" terminals on my engine gauges. They are all around 7.8 volts instead of 24 volts. So I'll chase...
Refilled the cooling system on the 2006 with water and I have no leaks. So I proceeded to crank and start it. Here's a video from that initial start:
Something seems "off". I think the RPMs are too high, but my instrument panel is completely dead, so I'm flying blind. I let it run for...
Got it done.
Heating element wiring:
Double pole double throw switch with center off position to select 1,800 or 2,700 watt configuration:
Powered on testing with just the fan running:
Video of it in action:
Given how I have it connected to a 20A breaker for testing, I dare not kick...
I filled the coolant system with water and I had a leak at the thermostat housing using the OEM gasket. Drained the system, removed the intake and muffler and upper radiator hose and took the housing apart. I then cleaned it up as best I could:
The new water pump was machined pretty rough...
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