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Yep those prices are pretty crazy. I can buy a brand new Kubota 15kW for around $8k and a 21kW for about $9.4k. I managed to pick up a Kubota 20kW for around $4,000 a few years ago. This one: I neglected it for too long and during a recent extended power outage, it died on me: I got it...

Thanks for the info and links! I did steal the K2 relay from the parts set and installed it in the 2006 unit. That did the trick and I was able to crank it over. On the 2nd attempt it started to fire, but I shut it down right away since I haven't added any coolant yet, but that's next!

NSN 5945-01-365-9953 https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep802a-mep803a-many-other-military-generators-nsn-5945-01-365-9953-sm50d8-88-21082-electromagnetic-relay/

I was watching the GP auction today and there were a few decent deals in PA and GA, which are within driving distance for me in VA. 802A 884 hours not running $1,510 803A on trailer 5,844 hours running and making power $1,900 803A on trailer 9,302 hours turns over, top missing $1,200...

Mine says 50 amp.

I guess $60 shipped is fair. For right now, however, I'm going to steal the K2 relay from my parts 802 set. I also went ahead and dropped that rusted K2 in a cup of Evapo-Rust. You never know...

I took a look at the circuitry around the starter solenoid and dead crank switch. I do get 24V at the X1 terminal of the K2 relay when applying the dead crank switch or moving the main switch to START. So I pulled out the K2 relay. Its buried in there below all those main power wires...

The parts for the secondary fuel filter finally showed up today, so I was able to go back to working on the 2006 unit. I know I need to pop the head on the 2007, but I'll save that work for a rainy day. :) After getting the filter installed, I tried priming, but the fuel pump (old square...

When load testing during the winter, I do plan to let it heat up my shop building (48 x 30). :) Looks like my breaker bank will fit nicely in the build in box: Test fitted the contraption in the enclosure after removing the compressor and coil: Got 4.5" of clearance from the bottom of...

Yes. There will be 4 breakers and a double pole double throw switch. It will be wired as follows: So 3 of the elements will each be wired directly to a 30A breaker. 2 of the remaining ones will be wired in series, with an option to add the 3rd one in series with the first 2. The table at...

Started actually building my load bank tonight. I'm using an old Carrier 2 ton outdoor unit to house the whole thing. Its 240V motor and fan will provide all the cooling I'll need. And here's the outer shell I'll drop the above contraption into: I will of course remove the compressor...

Well, I added a 2.5 quart "can" in my loop: That made for an even more impressive show. At first I though the lid was going to pop off given how it domed up, but a split seconds later, I just got a jet of water coming out the tube hitting the ceiling of my garage. So yeah, rings / cylinder...

So I cobbled this manometer together: I filled with water to the 6" mark: I then dead cranked the engine and all the water blew out the end of the tube. So lots of pressure in the crank case it would seem. I guess that means its time to pull the pistons and have a look at the rings...

Thanks for the linkage pics. Mine is a little different in that I don't have the nut with the collar. However, I'm using 2 nuts and 2 washers to accomplish the same thing: The flat piece with the long slot attached to the solenoid slides freely as one nut is jammed against the lever arm...

It does sound like it has SOME compression. Here's a video of it cranking from yesterday: I have a regular 3 finger hone, but that Lisle 15000 does look pretty cool. I do have 2 sets of .020" rings that I can file down as needed. I suspect the 2006 will probably need the same treatment...

Picked up some starter fluid and gave it a few shots. Nothing at all. Tried a few more, and its completely dead. So no compression. Keep in mind the 2007 started out looking like this back in June of 2014 when I first tore into it: And after sitting in Evapo-Rust for a day, it looked...

I went and pulled that arm from the spare unit (which was nice and smooth) and compared it to the "sticky" one: Sticky on top, smooth on bottom. So the issue was that the O-ring used was too large on the sticky one. Fortunately I had a spare that was the correct size, so I swapped them out...

I tried some PB Blaster. That did nothing. Looking at the parts diagram: I suspect the preformed packing (24) is what makes the lever a little sticky. I did not replace it when I had everything apart. I'm not even sure I had the arm disassembled at all.

Got the timing cover off. It involved the following: 1. Drain coolant & oil 2. Remove both fan shrouds 3. Loosen alternator & remove fan belt 4. Remove radiator 5. Remove fan 6. Remove crank pulley 7. Remove timing cover View with cover removed: Pump rack moves in and out very smoothly, so...

I thought that looked a little off, which is why I videoed it. Anyway, holding the arm all the way in the RUN position did nothing to get it started. I'll return to the arm in a moment. So I went down to the shop to pop the injectors on the 802 with the cracked piston, only to realize I never...