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I started to do this changeover about 15 years ago but then got the cooling system running the way it was designed and have never had any more problems with it. I was able to find an old 4 sheeve pulley off of a 6.2 and sawed the lugs off the front of it. I smoothed it out with a disc sander...

The only time antenna impedance / frequency is important is when transmitting because a bad impedance match will cause power to be reflected back to the transmitter and that can damage the output stage. A receiving antenna gathers RF energy and feeds it to the receiver so in general the longer...

I'm not sure why the trend seems to be to go to the 200 amp alternator in trucks running basic electrical loads. The upgrade is expensive. The installation kits are reasonable but the alternators are pricey and unless you want to run some high power radios or extreme electrical loads the 60 amp...

Good call Steve! Goes to prove there's always new tricks to learn.

I'm always concerned when someone posts anything about using ether to start a HMMWV. Most people have no idea how explosive ether is and tend to overspray it into an engine when trying to start one that's cold. Too much ether getting into a diesel engine can do some serious damage to the...

I installed a keyswitch in the hole to disable the start system for security. Think outside the box as to what it could be used for.

Schuster, depending on the box you installed you may or may not see glow plug cycling on the voltmeter. The original Prestolite boxes would cycle the glow plugs with relays that you could hear and you'd see the voltmeter drop. Some of the later more electronic boxes don't do that.

Just measure the diameter of the holes and Google "hole plugs". You can also find them at places like McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com. The commercially available plugs will snap right in and blank off the holes and are pretty inexpensive.

There are a whole bunch of amateur radios that will work in the 6 meter band since it's part of the amateur radio spectrum. They will communicate but will not be usable with squelch because the civilian ctss tones aren't the same as the 150 hz that the military uses. That and the commercial...

Your probably looking at around 200 amps max thru the connector. The NATO connectors themselves are rated at 1000 amps for 6 minutes and 500 amps continuous. I once slaved an M1 Abrams from my HMMWV at an airshow. Remember to have the engine OFF when slaving other vehicles. Starters draw...

AOR, the opening post says the truck has a 60 amp alternator in it. Schuster, the fact that the current draw goes away when the control box is disconnected does not necessarily mean that it is suspect since so many other circuits draw power through it. Don't discount it as the source of your...

The schematics can be found for free by downloading the 280-20-3 TM. They're at the back of the manual. In vehicles with the 60 amp alternator the output of the alternator goes thru the control box so it's not surprising that the current goes away when you disconnect it. BTW, as mentioned you...

Go out (or online) and buy yourself a DC clamp on amp meter. They start around $25 but make sure the one you buy measures DC current. Put it on your + battery lead and look at what causes the current draw. If it starts when you turn the switch to run then start disconnecting things until it...

Steve Kavanaugh wrote a very good article abut HMMWV starting problems over on the G503 site. Here's a link to it: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=230913

It's hard to believe that anyone who would buy a HMMWV wouldn't take the time to download the manual set for them. Especially since they're free! Your not going to get answers about your truck from the local Chevy dealer or the auto shop down the road. Here's the gauge cluster schematic: ​

Get online and do a Google search for this manual: TM 9-2320-280-20-3 Make sure you get the -3 manual, it's the one with full schematics at the very end of the TM. There are dozens of free download sites both here and on the internet.

The original brake light switch in the HMMWV was a carryover from the old M151 and wasn't the most robust of switches. Because there's no freeplay travel adjustment on the HMMWV pedal all of the current tends to flow through a very small section of the switch contacts putting excessive wear on...

I tossed mine and opted for a gallon of distilled water for the batteries in it's place.

You can eliminate the wheel itself by taking it to a tire shop and having them spin it up on a wheel balancer. that'll help you focus your efforts in the right area. Remember that when the wheel is mounted you have more leverage on the spindle. You might be able to feel the wobble with it...

For those people not familiar with HMMWV wiring and electrical systems in general the 24 to 12 converter that MarkM posted is probably the best way to go. This converter draws off of both batteries so you don't unintentionally drain one and it eliminates the problem of accidentally connection...