Search results

I found this online tonight and thought I'd post the link for those of us less familiar with diesel engines like the GM 6.2L we're driving, or trying to! . It's geared for the civy model but there just might be a nugget in there somewhere...

I believe the part number you're after is GM# 14024208 I see a lot of information online that this part is obsolete but the GM replacement part is the same size and shape but needs to have it's mounting holes relocated. I've never done this job so I'm only passing along what I've found.

The Prestolite control boxes are the oldest and are probably the simplest and easiest to repair. Open it up and all you'll find are some 24v starter solenoids which are pretty easy to change out. One of the solenoids is a reverse power relay in case you hook up the batteries backwards and...

This is characteristic of the early Prestolite protective control boxes beginning to fail. Also characterized by a loud "clunk" when the start switch goes into the run position. The USMC "fix" for this was a swift kick straight up into the PCB with your left foot! LOL

The term "squelch" or "squelched" means that between transmissions the radios speaker is turned off and you won't hear that "rushing" sound. In the "squelch off" position you will always hear it and it gets old after a while. This is true with both the PRC-25/77 and the RT-67. The PRC 25 would...

Just go to your local auto parts store and ask for a water pump for a 6.2L engine. It isn't anything special.

Guten tag. There are some things you should understand about the military radios. First of all they are wide bandwidth radios where most civilian radios are narrow band. They are also FM rather than AM radios. The PRC-25 and the 77 operate from 30 to 75 Mhz so I'm not sure how you ever...

Take the sensor out of the crossover pipe and put it into a pan of hot water and measure the temperature when it switches. You can do this test on the kitchen stove with a thermometer and an ohmmeter. Drop in some ice in the pan and see when it changes again. If that looks OK move on to the...

It's the 150hz tone squelch getting into the audio. Normally it's modulated onto the signal to open the squelch on the receiving radio. If it's a 25 try changing the A24 squelch module, if it's a 77 you want to change the A54 module. They perform the same function. BTW, There is no A50 in a 25.

The B pillar gets removed when the ambulance body is dropped onto the truck so I made my own shoulder mounting brackets out of 1/4" aluminum and riveted them to the body. As far as I know there was never a retrofit kit for the 996 and 997 trucks for the 3 point seat belts. I've been told that...

I have a problem in my 996 ambulance that the green 3 point seat belts are barely long enough to fasten for an average size person and will not work for a large individual. The nylon section of the seat belt is 100" when extended, this does not include any of the mounting hardware, only the...

Because of the way the body is constructed on the HMMWV I chose to put a 1/4-20 stainless steel stud thru the firewall behind the heater controls with star washers and nuts on both sides. All of it was coated with De-Oxit electrical antioxidizing grease to prevent future issues with body bonding...

I believe they are a part of the seatbelt upgrade kits.

Personally I went with a 996 ambulance body. It has the benefit of being watertight, is lockable for storage and they can be used with either the hard or soft doors. I also like the fact that the rear seat backs fold down and there's room for 2 people to sleep comfortably. Another option not...

The wire you want to check is the #54 lead on the top of the IP.

The 60 amp units made by either Prestolite or Leece-Neville are alternators, not generators. The way they work is the regulator assembly sends a voltage to the slip rings through the brushes to the rotor that controls the output voltage and current from the stator of the alternator. This is...

There's a 50 ohm, 50 watt power resistor in the regulator casting that occasionally blows out that can cause this problem too. Luckily it's an easily replaceable part, just 2 screws. The other causes of voltage fluctuations are a bad regulator and worn brushes. All of this stuff is available...

The way the fuel system works in the HMMWV is that the fuel pump (also called the lift pump) in the lower right front side of the engine pulls the fuel from the tank and pushes it up to the water separator filter mounted on the firewall behind the left rear of the engine. From there it goes to...

The sending unit in the tank is just a resistor that controls current thru the gauge. On the gauge itself the connector with the ribs on it is the +24v input, the smooth one is the tank sender input. Put a variable resistor (~200 ohms) between it and ground and vary it. The gauge should vary...

You shouldn't have any problems doing that.