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have settled on .69 as the only ratio for the first run of 25 sets. .71 was just real close and that small amount more will have more plusses than minuses........... with stock 9:00-20 tires 2300 rpm will yeild 57 mph , with 14.5r20 or 11:00-20 tires 2300 will give 62 mph
well, i'm not saying circumference is the right way. most of the formulas i see use the radius or loaded radius which is less.
kenny, if you shift at 2300 2-3 drops 960 rpm, 3-4 drops 880 rpm, and stock trans 4-5 drops 484 rpm. with .69 od 4-5 drops 714 rpm. now that does not really sound like...
not sure i agree or disagree about using radius for the calculation. with steel belted radials doesn't it make sense that the circumference is the all important measurement since one rotation will equal that distance?? i just throw this out for input, i use the published radius from michelin for...
yes kenny, the jump to 5th is very similar to the 3 - 4 shift. the change to 2nd gear is the 4 holes to let oil into the front side of the gear from the rear. yes the needles are captive in the cage, this allows much higher rpm than if the needles are touching each other.
RE: MODIFICATION
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=13027&highlight=m621
overdrive has been discussed on the modifying thread, but i am having .69 od gears made along with the other bits that will make it work.
if it is for a particlular hmmwv look at the wiring for that vehicle. i find it is very easy to get to the alt bolts with the fender off...............
RE: Re: RE: hyd power steering info
my wheels have 1" more offset than stock with 14.5r20xl's and clear by lots. also stock 9:00-20 will clear. resevoir is form a chevy van, used just the end caps and put in 4" tubing to get it longer.
RE: Re: RE: Power steering for the Deuce?
exactly. it would be wonderful to find some of those, but i have only seen pictures, never seen one in person. i suspect they are too old to be in the salvage yards of the US.
put a 0 - 80 gauge in the bleeder on top of the final filter, you have to have some pressure there for it to start. 20 psi would be normal when cranking. if you have that pressure, loosen several lines at the injectors and crank to see if it is trying to inject fuel. if it is not trying at all...
at the high cost of air o matic i could make up hyd kits, but i am not willing to deal with the liability. yes there is some welding and some holes to drill and you have to remove the radiator, but you end up with something you will love. stopped with 14.5r20 tires you can easily steer with palm...
i have never found a box that was easier to install than the 710. i have done several of these and it is great. remember you need a box with a horizontal shaft
it is spring loaded, so unless it got rusty and the balls are gone just clean and grease it. very common bearing used by most vehicles in the 50's and 60's memphis has them, everyone wants $$ for them
if you need bearings, it is probably cheaper in the long run to just replace the engine. used engines can be $500 or less and you will spend more than that on bearings.
fuel pump is on firewall with filter, just was the easiest place to put it but not closest. i plan to put a foam 'boot' between the intake and the vent screen to route fresh air to heater as defrost works better that way (outside air in winter is very dry)
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