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I wish you guys the best of luck with them, honestly. But I will say once again that they won't continue to function properly for long. If you shop around new metal motors can be had for as low as $80, or you can buy some used ones and replace the o- rings in them, if they even need it. Plenty...

It could have an internal leak. Do you have the long style or short style airpack? If you have a long style there is a small 1/8" npt plug in the cap of the air cylinder you can remove and see if brake fluid drains out or blows out when you push the brake pedal. If you try to blow it out the...

Gotta be the throwout or trans input bearing.

Slop or not, the factory deuce steering box is the weakest link in the steering system and is somewhat prone to stripping out. Add hydraulic input into it and it will make it even more subject to failure. It was never designed for a lot of input pressure.

I will pose this question, as I am unsure of it one way or the other. Is it better to turn on any rear facing flood lights or work lights that are on the disabled vehicle, or better to leave them off? Logic says that any light that defines a fixed object and working people on a roadside is good...

Most important thing: watch the fluid level in the brake master cylinder.

98, I fully agree and practice the same strategy.

One shock at each wheel end is all you need. You can experiment with different shocks at your discretion, but some light pickup truck shocks should work fine. I am going to try some rear shocks from a Jeep Cherokee XJ first. I really just need to buy some steel and get started, but good steel is...

You can add shocks to the rear without ever having to disconnect them. Start with a mount that affixes to the sling load point on top of the tandem pivot using the 1" pin to hold it in place. You need this bracket to fit snug in that pocket and protrude from the top about 1/4". Take a piece of...

If it isn't working and the red reset button has no effect, or sticks in, they are good as junk. You MAY be able to mess with it and make it work but they don't ever stay working for long if you do get them to work. Better off just replacing them.

I wouldn't suspect the shaft as the problem first. I would check shift forks for wear, check the roller bearings where the mainshaft pilot rides on rollers inside the back of the input shaft, and maybe the Dogs and dog springs on fifth.

Nice when you don't have to pay for the parts isn't it?

When I eventually get mine from Carnac I believe I already have my mounting solution figured up. Some clever placement of sheet metal or plywood goes a long way.

Ok, I see what to mean. I suppose " hot" is a relative term.

$1000 isn't bad. I really like my G code pump, but I've never seen an LDS pump that didn't have an Fdc.

High temps? After a long drive (~200 miles) or so my diffs are right at 100*F , measured with an infrared temp gun on the top portion of the housing where the pinion bearing rides. My rear axle runs 100* on the front pinion and 158 on the rear, so I figured my rear bearing might be going bad.

So has anyone swapped cross members from the riveted type to the removable type yet? It doesn't look too hard to do but I haven't really inspected both setups real closely to be fair.

Mine has the riveted one but I'm contemplating removing it and installing a bolt in crossmember when I swap the motor.

Probably the air solenoid on the transfer case.

They are so far south because you live so far north!