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If you know anyone with a 5 ton wrecker it would make quick work of it. Other than that you are stuck with using ( as mentioned) a tractor or building some kind of "A" frame from heavy steel pipe and plate or channel iron and buying a good chainfall.

I'll be there. Just set the date!

The Hotshot additives are pretty good. With the fuel additives you WILL feel a perceptible difference, but be sure to follow the dosage and use interval instructions CAREFULLY or you may actually cause damage. Same with the oil additive. These additives have a LOT of detergents in them and are...

IF you change the head gaskets, apply some copper spray-a-gasket to all the surfaces and both sides of the gaskets. That is the best thing to keep the oil from seeping again.

You shouldn't need any bracing for that fitting, but it won't hurt anything to add it. The structure looks pretty well self supported.

You definitely have a spring broken somewhere.

Where in cenla are you? You should really come over and take a look at what I have here before you purchase something questionable like that. I'm over just south of Fort Polk.

Mine has been leaking from the front since I got it. It is annoying but not a big deal as long as it isn't leaking real bad. Just keep some degreaser handy and clean it every few times you drive it. I've given up trying to keep mine clean until I swap engines.

So you just used a standard 12v flasher relay? And then if you use one of the electronic 2 pin flasher relays it should work LED lights without issue as well.

No needle valve needed really. All you have to do is make sure to have the hoses coming from the air supply "T" to the motors the same length. The motor supplied by the shorter length of hose will always run faster.

Glad you got home alright! It barely wanted to run at all getting it to my house. Must have really been that filter like I thought.

The engine alone is the better part of 2,000 pounds. Something like 17-1800. Then the trans is a couple hundred pounds too. It is easier to pull the engine and transmission together. Remove the center floor pan, remove the transmission top cover, then pull the engine/ trans. I wouldn't use the...

You could air the tires down a bit, tighten the chains another link, then air back up.

You have the plastic wiper motors, they suck. Try and find some of the metal wiper motors and you'll be good to go. The metal motors are rebuildable, the plastic ones aren't. Ive been daily driving mine for over a year now and had no major issues until today. Found my lower tank on my radiator...

LDT and LDS blocks are exactly the same. The entire engine is exactly the same except for the injector pump and pistons. If it were me I would take the parts needed for the LDS off of your busted motor, complete the LDS, and swap it in.

That is not a coolant hose. It is the tachometer cable.

You might as well just pull the head. You know your going to have to anyway. Order a set of HH o-rings from Welldigger for a few bucks and get it all out of the way.

If you don't have the rear bearing out you need to remove it. Tap it out gently from inside with a long 3/8" extension. There may or may not also be a snap ring you need to remove behind the bearing towards the rear of the truck. Knock the bearing out, slide the shaft back and pull it up and out...

Nothing to worry about. It lifts straight up and out.

Ouch! That sucks