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Whoa. Independent suspension? Really!?! Would love to see some pics, or maybe a link to another, more relevant thread?

I was quoted $800 to ship 12 wheels/tires down to central CA.

It's just an M109 box with a custom cabover rack that I built for it (that's where I'm going to mount my generator, water heaters, AC condensor, etc.). I actually had an Alaskan Camper (10ft non-cabover) and was planning on using that until before I decided to build something that I could live...

Nah, reeeeeally?

I like the plates too, but I think the points that have been raised about the plate and the studs is something that deserves a little more attention than 'if this is an issue for somebody...'. If this is an issue for anybody, it's too late. If these plates can be mounted on the frontside or...

I was wondering about that. Asked in another thread, but never got an answer.

Just talked to someone else that suggested a Tu-Flo 750 unit might also fit, and those put out 16.5cfm. Will post back when I find out for sure. Going to be expensive in either case. I've been told that remanufactured units cost over $1000 (without a core to exchange).

Well, I've got some more info. That Midland part number that terrynash gave us was an OEM part number. The Midland part number for aftermarket air compressor (same unit) is KN7010X. I got all this info from Larry at Bendix (he's part of their tech team, and was really helpful). Anyway, he told...

Yeah, I love that video. What about that jackass on Extreme 4x4? The way he hit that Neon was just flat-out stupid.

Thanks man, that's really nice of you to offer.

Finished grinding-out the welds on the last of the wheels today. Bought ten, used one as a practice wheel, and one of the center-sections was out-of-round so I scrapped it. So that leaves me a total of eight finished wheels. I need seven for Mah Deuce and two for my trailer though, so I'll need...

Well, I'm going to have full-hydro steering and 2.5" remote reservoir desert racing shocks at each wheel, and maybe hydraulic bumpstops too, but I'm building a motorhome. A go-fast deuce would have to be another project...

Wonder how big the swaybars on that thing are, eh?

I'd love to build a deuce that handled like this. I'd suggest clicking 'mute' before watching the video though...

Not sure how well that might work. When splines strip, they usually run both parts.

While I agree with you, that locking hubs are USUALLY weaker than drive flanges, there's simply no reason why they couldn't be designed/manufactured to be just as strong as flanges. There's still obviously going to be more parts, and there's not much that can go wrong with drive flanges. But if...

I'm running those T831's and this is what I'm doing for wheels. Hoping to finish-up the last of them this week.

I would guess that he was talking about running the wheels like that with the hubs in a dually configuration, not flipped for singles. In that case, I think the only issue would be whether the backside of the wheels was chamferred or not. Oh, and then there's the potential wheel-to-brake drum...

Picked up the engine as-planned. But the swap has been delayed, because I also picked up a brand new cab and a bunch of other parts. I've been busy building wheels and working on a bunch of other deuce-related projects. The LDT that's in my truck runs great, so I'm not in any big hurry to yank...

Dude, if you're going to post something like that you've got to elaborate a little bit more. Which locking hubs? How/Why? Sure, there are more parts, but that doesn't automatically mean they're weaker than the stock driveflanges.