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No pressure regulation involved, it is temperature regulation that is in play. The pressure in a cooling system is just a result of the coolant heating and expanding. The coolant needs time to lose heat as it passes through the radiator and the engine needs time for coolant to come up to...

Yes, and it gives the coolant in the radiator some time to lose heat before returning to the engine.

I'd be in for 3 if someone with the purchasing info wants to start a group buy on them. I'll pre pay funds including shipping.

That's what I would do also. There could be 10,000 filters out in circulation that are mislabeled and they should do a recall of the entire lot if that is the case.

Can you video the fluctuation? I'd start by checking all the wiring connections associated with the panel lights for corrosion or loose connections. I don't have my schematics with me at the moment but from memory it's a pretty simple circuit and should be easy to check them all in a few...

If it were mine, I'd strip it down completely, have the block dipped and all the oil galleries flushed, check the crankshaft for scoring, check the cylinder for battering from the broken rod, replace what's worn and have the head done. Do it right, do it once.

You should use a gasket and a very thin coat of Indianhead gasket shellac on each side of it just to fill any machining marks and make a good seal. Avoid using for a gasket silicone products.

Airtex E8135, $28.00 at rockauto.com I think I'll pick up a couple of spares myself.

I think the same guy worked on one of my sets.....it had that exact same kink in the same line!

All else aside.....those meters are mechanical D'Arsonval movements and can be physically damaged if they are constantly slamming over to the max. I would manage the loading to prevent this from happening if possible.

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It may well be stuck but you'd still not be able to turn it by gripping the shaft with your hands alone even if it were not stuck......they are pretty stiff switches. I would inspect the contacts which are visible along the sides and see if any show signs of previous arching and do this before...

And being a good troubleshooter is a requirement to being a good mechanic. Understanding the mechanism that one is working on is imperative to being able to trouble shoot it and make a correct diagnosis and only then can an effective, efficient and correct repair be done. Anyone can pull a...

Agree totally, that is why I bought two MEP803a sets and have a few smaller gasoline sets to fill in if required.

Respectfully, you are trying to squeeze the nickel until the buffalo shits. :) Run the generator at 60hz and properly loaded, otherwise any possible savings that you might incur will be eaten up in the long run with increased maintenance issues.

I'd add a starter to the list of things to have, or ar least starter repair parts. Can't run the set if you can't crank it over.....and there's no "pull start"

Not knowing the exact material that the hose is made of, I would refrain from coating them with anything. It would be a shame to have to use it in the future only to find it degraded from an incompatible spray that was put on to preserve it. That question might ge better answered by someone from...

Just an FYI, It is best to store belts and hoses in a closed environment like ziplock bag. Doing so will help keep them from becoming hard from exposure to fumes in the air. They should also be kept out of direct sunlight.

Great Job!!! You are an inspiration to all!