Search results

Used for a block heater. If you don't have a block heater, remove that fitting and put a compatible metal plug in it. I use a very light coating of Indian Head gasket shellac on things like this to seal the threads. By compatible I mean same type of metal so you don't set a galvanic reaction...

Sure you can. Probably easier and cheaper to break the low voltage/low current DC charger output connection than house power.

It is a great idea......provided that you can get the unit running in the first place.:mrgreen:

Thanks, I read the post a while ago where you explained that. It spurred me to go and recheck all my connections on the defective unit. I replaced both S6 and S8 in this unit last summer, wiring them per the schematic, and had a working unit right beside it to compare. I will go back over it...

Will do.

Made my voltage measurements today. All measurements taken using a Fluke 29 Series II digital multimeter. My measurements with genset off and resistors isolated: R10= 7.2 ohms R11= 7.6 ohms...

Thanks, I will measure and record the voltages as you indicate. The number of turns through the current transformers are correct, I checked the count but haven't yet measured the output of each while running. I will check back tomorrow with my findings.

Thanks, don't sweat it, I'm sure its solid. I don't think its that part either. There is something triggering the overload fault/ tripping the breaker. The winds have picked up here significantly so my work with the set is concluded for today. I will perform further trouble shooting tomorrow...

Update: So far, I've replaced S6 and S8 on this set ( that was a while ago) Wired each following the schematics,( as recommended by Guyfang) and is the proper way to do it so a problem is not duplicated. The other day, I replaced the overload/short circuit relay with a different one from a...

A library is no good if nobody reads the books.:p

Is there a schematic plate riveted inside the door of the 802a like there is in the 803a sets?

Thanks for that, but I found some here. See above^^^ I will continue to look also. I'm pretty sure I have some more but they may be in another box in storage. Just one of real inconveniences of moving.

Well, I started checking my radio parts boxes and I'll be dipped......I found six of them. They aren't blue, but they are actually better quality than the ones in the genset. Somehow, I knew ten years ago that I would need these little gems. I guess my gut feeling was right!:naner:

Please don't leave for the boonies without a hard copy of the manuals. Its difficult enough in the lower 48 obtaining things....up there will be rough.:mrgreen:

Will do, thanks!

Ok thanks, much appreciated.

Yes, they are the same as an 802. I've searched for them on a number of sites and come up with every terminal type BUT the one I'm looking for. Funny thing is, you could find them anywhere ten years ago....every hamfest vendor and electronics supplier carried them.....they are not or should say...

Part number 12142-4 terminal stud Item 52 in Fig 8 of the parts manual. Thanks

Not unless you physically bypass it, and that has drawbacks. Normally, the generator gets its fuel from the onboard tank, which is kept full by the second fuel pump mounted in the compartment above the tank under the panel. That pump is controlled by a high/low fuel switch in the tank. Notice...

Thermostats & gaskets, flex hoses, alternator, starter, return line hose, filters, fuel pump. I can't imagine that you'd need much more that couldn't be ordered and shipped.....even to a remote spot.....everything else is getting there somehow.