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Great job! May I ask why you feel the need to pot this?

Going to do that today. I checked the wiring per the schematic and screw torques but did not remove and clean.

That is a great list of questions and that post should be included in any sticky that is made.

Ok thanks! Your post came up in a search regarding overload thats how I ended up here. The posts here gave me good insight as to how and where to proceed. I will continue to trouble shoot my problem.

Any update on the outcome of the 803a overloading and disconnecting the load? I just finished changing out a burned up S8 switch in one of my 803a sets and still having the same issue as the original post in this thread although my set will go for quite a while before disconnecting the load and...

If these sets were used in a very hot desert environment where daytime temps reach 120+ degrees F, it's likely the thermostats were removed to bring the temps down. Good idea on keeping spares in stock, that's what I did, they are cheap. Also, you can use a very thin coating of that gasket...

Had same issue with my 803a. Wouldn't come up past 130 degrees after 1 hour. A Diesel engine will run at minimum temperature for a very long time with no thermostat or a stat that is stuck open. Installed the Murray Mu55358 and gasket # 2138. Now runs at 180 degrees which is good for summer...

Good story Guyfang, ^^^^^^^^!! Its difficult to get anything to adhere to a shiny glass surface like a bulb has. The dye idea was brilliant. Hopefully it lasted long enough to keep the inspectors off you backs.

Thats good to know that a 1.8w LED bulb will put out that much white light. The incandescent bulbs are 6w if I recall and they are dim.....and even dimmer with the green tinting. I'll be ordering some of those LEDs myself. Thanks for posting the reference.

Well, my new S8 is in the PO BOX. I'll be picking it up tomorrow and attempting an install if the weather isn't blowing snow and rain. This winter weather just keeps lingering on and on here. Will post back with my results of next load test. Update: Picked up the switch but too late in the day...

We got the same storm here in Kentucky the night before last.....and it rained off and on most of yesterday too. Today it's flurrying snow and the temps have dropped almost 40 degrees in 24hrs. Will be glad to see this winter leave for a while.

Well, it's good to know alternative operating situations. What happens when that part is not available?......and not going to be available? Reducing the operation down to something more basic is good info to know in a pinch. The more components in any system, the more things that can go wrong...

I see no reason that wouldn't work. You'll just be operating with a larger fuel supply and no low fuel protection.....which to me is not a critical issue as I monitor my fuel tank/supply routinely and these sets prime up rather easily. Keep in mind that you will have to eliminate the fuel pick...

Thats the critter.

I've never taken a K1 relay apart but I'm sure there is at least one member here who has. I doubt it is vacuum or wetted. I do know that it's not an easy part to come by and certainly not cheap to replace.

Other than the opportunity to exercise your genset, I hope your power is restored quickly.

Not sure if this is widely known knowledge among 803 owners but if you are using K1 as your switching relay to apply a load that is directly connected to the load terminals without breakers or switches further down the line towards the load you are stressing the K1 contacts and shortening its...

I agree with exercising the switches.....and also cleaning them which has proven to me that they do get cruddy because they are not sealed and will impede correct functioning of the generator. On both my 803a's cleaning and exercising brought back functions that were not working. I also...

I don't think there's anything wrong with the old style blue plastic S8 switch, it was used for years on many sets and performed fine. For as many times as I'll ever switch it (probably never other than to exercise it once in a while once the set is hooked up) I can't justify the additional cost...

The 802a is only rated for 26 amps in the 120/240 setting. Pulling 40 amps is 9600 watts (I X E= P) which is almost double the rated capacity of the 802a......not going to work for you.