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Page 1-10 Change 1 of the 24 manual says the aux fuel pump shuts off when the day tank is full.
I've not run any external fuel supply on either of my 803a sets so I cannot comment on how full they fill the tanks.
There is is a test procedure for the float switch module in the manual and you...
Yes I understand that completely and will follow the list. Is that page in a manual or is that of your own design?
There is wiring in the set that has sharpie marker on them but I went through it this morning and cleaned, tightened and verified the connections by the wire numbers and point to...
Thanks, I thought I was losing it for a minute! You sent me scouring the schematics for other designations....which isn't a bad thing really.
I think I've narrowed it down to the bad switch....it has seen better days.
Yes, a heavier extension cord is always better. A #12 AWG would be better for that length.
My my rule of thumb is #14 for 25ft, #12 for 50ft and #10 for 100ft with power tools like a circular saw, drill, table saw etc.
If a known load is heavier, I'll go with a heavier cord at shorter...
I'm positive that the burnt contact was there all along and causing my fault. The set would run without fault on a lesser load of 5400w. It was difficult if even possible to get the spray under the switch I think my cleaning had little effect on that aspect of it. It did however clean the...
TB-3 connection 12 is one leg of a winding used in the 120/240v circuit so that would account for it being overloaded and not being able to carry the full load as only two windings in the generator were active, the third making only
partial or no contact due to the burnt S8 contacts on terminal...
Update: I used a can of CRC cleaner on the S8 switch and exercised it thoroughly. Hooked up my dryer element loads and tried it again....no dice. Still faulting with an overload fault showing on the fault panel. The ammeter DID start working however but was pegging to the right. I cut the load...
Yes it reaches a point of diminished returns at some point but I figure it's worth a try considering that a cleaning resolved my volt meter issue a short while ago. I'll try it once more and see what happens then probably go for a new switch.
I've got one unit that runs fine with two 5400w dryer elements connected in parallel but my other one is tripping the overload circuit within a minute or so of loading it down.
S8 was gritty as **** and presented a volt meter problem when I first got the unit and the unit has had work done on...
Dont forget hoses, filters and liquids. A spare starter is also a good thing to have on hand as well. The set is useless if you can't crank it up. I've got two MEP-803a sets and also keep one spare alternator.
This reminds me, I've got to check my experiment of the two different well nuts...
Thanks!
Just running it by the hive to confirm my thoughts on it. I've never done a manifold heat observation before so it's good to know that things are in order as to cylinder output. The set runs very well pand the exhaust is clean so all cylinders must be contributing as they should.
I was using my IR heat gun on the exhaust ports in my MEP-803a and finding a slightly lower temp on the end cylinders, a difference of about 13-15 degrees from the center two cylinders. For anyone else who has used this type of thermometer did you find the same results?
My guess is there is...
Wired up a couple of dryer elements in series this morning and connected a 240v 10 inch fan to them and did a load test for about 2.5 hours. @ 80% load capacity on the meter.
The set was running steady at 210 degrees +- but the oil pressure fell to about 32psi after an hour or so according to...
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