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1) Edited title. 2) Keyways on a new shaft are "almost" opposite. (see my drawing in this thread, post #10). 3) Possible source for seals: here

3/8" will work - for a pavement queen..... Just consider this: The stock M35 wheel disk measures almost 1/2" in the center and it is stamped, not just a flat plate - which makes it even stronger. And it was designed for tires much smaller than 46inches. Now if you are referring to the center...

Lol.... Not sure if I ever did post it...... :)

Does this help.....?

The correct rivets are Ø3/16", L 3/8", semi-tubular, brass. I bought these from Jay-Cee, many years ago: BR7-6B And this is their corresponding (air hammer)tool for those : TO-10-4506

It doesn't look so.... Here is some info: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/deuce-starter-model-number.69516/post-844110 Old thread with pics and specs: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/availability-of-multifuel-engine-starter.23484/page-2

They are both exactly the same thing! Same bearing cups #3920, inside and outside. Just remove those eight 1/2" hex bolts attaching the drum to the hub. Then you knock out the wheel studs, and press them back in, from the other side. Finally flip the hub upside down and bolt back together...

Precisely, it would have to be 19.70" Even if both surfaces were machined to perfect flat, there's always some residual tension left, so once you start loosening the nuts that seal will break, in more than one spot eventually. Meaning that parts have to be cleaned and resealed every time. Not...

Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, eBay......... Something like this one.... which I'm sure will include some instructions.

Sure, you could mount the same plate on the front face, as well and still use the stock seal in its original position. Your backspace would go up to a bit over 10 inches, which sometimes is desired to keep the wheels from sticking out too far. Now, why in between both halves|? First, you would...

I feel sorry for that guy...:razz: In that case you may not need those plates chamfered on both sides. Something to keep in mind: The studs are now being pressed into the adapter plate and their knurled/splined neck is only about 7mm long. Being that the studs are only Ø5/8" (15.9mm) but...

Something to start with......

WOW... you must have some good eyes...!? :wink: All I can see in that one picture is the "smooth" shaft sticking out of the dust cap, with about 1 inch of travel left before totally collapsed.

On low-mileage engines, exhaust valves tend to stick in their guides because they have seals. While sitting, oil won't easily migrate in there like it does on the intake valves, which are not sealed. A stuck valve can cause the pushrod to bend and eventually slip off of the rocker arm. Even...

Prob. both......... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/6-5l-gep-engine-valley-drain.166278/

That steel punch will work better & faster; a brass drift not so much, but it is safer for your hub, at least.... As always: practice makes perfect! ;-)

Welcome to SteelSoldiers! If you mean the bearing cups (#3920), each hub has two of them, press-fitted into their respective seats. For removal of (old) races, seats have notches, to either apply a puller or tap them out with a brass drift. Be careful to not damage the seat's surface! Before...

Corrected.

:ditto: I suggest reading this thread, also...

Melling CCS-36 One possible source, here...