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See post #8 in this thread....

I'm assuming you are referring to these two.... (?) https://www.parttarget.com/2530-01-349-2058_2530013492058_B3040.html https://www.parttarget.com/2530-01-370-5462_2530013705462_12414420.html/-AE122BFD-ABB0-4E7C-B861-18920025CEBF The latter is wider, but not that much... See my post, here....

Ø 0.75" - ¼ = Ø 9/16" If so, that would reduce the max clamp load to almost half of the original (!?) Can you elaborate, please?

If it was mine I would simply modify those holes to fit our std lug nuts...

I fully agree on that... But my point was about safety. In your case - with bolt-together wheels - you can take advantage of it and easily add a beadlock for just $25 and greatly improve safety. Or not......

Yes and no..... WITHOUT a beadlock - in the event of a front tire blowout at 70mph, the tire beads will come off the wheel shoulders and the remaining rubber loosely wrap and twist around the wheel until it gets stuck in between wheel and steering components, eventually causing a complete...

Sorry to tell you... but yes, that is exactly the cause...! Time to replace parts - or adjust properly, at least. Those pads you see on the inside of the spring pockets are hardened kind of "inserts", plug welded to the casting to protect those from premature wear. Yours still look OK to me...

Why tubes....?? If you are referring to these 20x10" (10bolt, 2pc wheels) - that's a tubeless design.

1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3 is correct. Same goes for the non-turbo version, as well as the GM 6.2L

Stock Deuce axles have a 6.72:1 gear ratio. I'm almost sure that's NOT what you want.... Not even the faster, aftermarket 4.90:1 gears from Overson Engineering.

I'd say most often the cause of "wobble" is the wheel, not the tire.... I have worked on- and modified dozens of FMTV (steel) wheels . Problem is, from factory their (poor) design allows both halves to shift against each other while bolting them together. Mounting that assembly on a hub and...

You said "brand new tires with balancing beads". But do we know for sure that you are running with just beadlocks - and all dry and clean inside? Because normally, tires with runflat inserts also have (should have) that special grease - which obviously would cause exactly what you stated above...(?)

TM 9-2320-279-24P-1, Fig. 58, Item 1 ............. AAX-0851............. CAP, FILLER OPENING...............NSN 2930-00-789-0117 Technical data, drawings and cross reference for that cap is here: https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/2930-00-789-0117.html

Doesn't look like carbon to me... missing aluminum it is (!) Guess that particular piston would have been the next in line, to seize up....

That link takes me to their earthmover tires...???

First time I ever heard of them.... thanks for the hint! Not sure where you saw them, at that price... (?) Closest I could find would be their AN8-13 (cad-plated, undrilled), 1-15/32 nom.length, 11/16 grip length, at $2.08 each. Would be great if they had the correct lock nuts for this, too.

Long time ago.... some intelligent men already found out: In a winch truck, if you had the bumper installed with the "U" facing down, and say you wanted to pull out a stump, the wire rope would start cutting its way into your bumper!:oops:

Not?? Do a search for Henkel's "Loctite 518". There are at least three different sizes to choose from: 6ml and 50ml tubes and also a 300ml cartridge. Available everywhere; Napa, eBay, Amazon, they all carry them. Not the cheapest gasket maker ever, but unlike silicone and PU sealants, this...

Of course...! Axles will no longer carry the weight of the truck, once you pulled the U-bolts.

Remove both U-bolts. Then loosen bolts #11 and separate (pry) the spring pack off of the spring seat. It should easily slide off, after removing the spindle nuts