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TM 9-2320-209-34P (December 1976), Section 16, Fig. 127

Just use plenty of tire lube and you should be fine.

Agreed, even if 3500 miles is not enough to consider this a good used motor... Reading post 1 again, it doesn't seem as if there was any sign of loss of power or cylinder(s) misfiring, shortly before the disaster. How could a faulty injector cause this much havoc in just seconds?

I suspect you are talking about solid rubber runflat inserts, AKA "donuts" ? .... like this one....... ? .... and not this type of full rubber beadlock .....? .... or this other version, steel/rubber beadlock ???

Exact............? :giggle: Hex head, 1/2”-20 tpi UNF, Grade-8, L= 1-½”, partially threaded, 5/8" shank (grip) BTW: Flanges are 3/8" thick. So, if the stock bolts are hard to find (or too expensive), a std 2" long, Grade 8 bolt with a 3/4" unthreaded shank will also do, after cutting off...

Can anyone explain this mark on the exhaust valve? A ½”-lockwasher would be about that size... But since this mark is so perfectly centered on the valve head and there are no evident signs on the corresponding piston, I doubt that the engine "ate" a washer... (?)

Squeeze or twist-and-screw in, depending on what type of beadlock we are talking about. Or are you referring to runflats? Often yes, especially if tires were kind of collapsed/compressed from being stacked in a pile. Yes.

That's correct. 1 foot wider but exactly the same length.

Sweet dreams.........! There would be hundreds of good options - if......... the cab was only 4 inches longer!

Exactly....

Sadly not... That's the problem I have when selling HMMWV engines to people who want them for their suburbans and pickups: Due to the different shape at the bottom, the mil pan sure does interfere with the crossmember...(!)

Those will stick out a lot, on the front axle. Ideally you want something between 8.5 - 9.0 inches of BSP, measured with the adapter plate already bolted on.

That's your problem, right there! Solution: Brake cleaner & chalk ..... Degrease and dry all surfaces thoroughly, then rub the cone all around with your piece of chalk. Insert the joint, screw the nut on a few threads and eventually use a small prybar (in between nut and knuckle) to force the...

:ditto:

Ammonia solution will do.... Any household cleaner (with 5-10% NH₃ by weight), or buy 30% commercial and eventually dilute. Where it matters, any residue (stains of ammonium sulfate) can easily be removed with a damp towel or by rinsing off with water.

Sir, your question has been answered, already...(!) Either turn the crank (CW) at the front bolt - which holds the pulley and damper in place (takes a 24mm socket & breaker bar), or at the flexplate ring gear, in any direction. That can be done with a large screwdriver as lever, or best with...

The latter...... M989A1 (TRAILER, AMMUNITION, HEAVY EXPANDED MOBILITY, 11 TON,, NSN 2330-01-275-7474 Yes. M989 and M989A1 are two different beasts. Equipment data/dimensions for each can be found in TM 9-2330-368-14&P and TM 9-2330-383-14&P, respectively.

Moved them all to the MTVR section.

No, for long trips or everyday usage I would not want more than 1/2" difference. But for temporary use I see no problem at all - unless you had detroit lockers installed.

I'd shop for a 12.00R20 tire - which can be mounted on a 7.5 inch rim, no problem. Their overall diameter is somewhere between 44.5" and 45" and as a spare that would work good enough. A2 rims are TT, so just make sure you get the right tube and flap, too.