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The wheels/ hubs on your truck have a bolt pattern of 10 on 11.25" and the lug nut holes are chamfered. Same goes for the HEMTT wheels. So, the A. to Q 1: Yes, the HEMMTs will mount on your hubs and using the stock lug nuts. Only issue is, HEMTT wheels have a center that is 3/4" thick, vs. the...

Not sure if I'm understanding what you mean by "3rd gear and up".......... ?? Just in case....... What you call "sleeve" (encircled in your diagram, post #6) is the shift collar of the 2nd-3rd synchro unit. Shifted to the front would be 2nd gear position (only). All the way to the rear, 3rd...

I bet those are 20" Dayton-style rims.

Does it do the same when the TC is NEUTRAL ? And in LOW ?

99% correct..... ;-) In your last diagram (R), it's the large gear on the mainshaft that moves back and forth, between 1st, N and Rev., so the arrow should be on the upper gear. (I know, that original drawing can be a bit confusing...) The powerflow for all positions can be found in the -34...

Ambac ?? I thought they all were Stanadyne s?

Yes, they are specific - even if many parts are the same for both series. Yours is a winch PTO, good for the M-39 & M809 series 5-tons. (Spicer manual transmissions #6352 and #6453 )

Sounds like your engine is starving for fuel. I'd recommend downloading and study this TM.... (Best step-by-step guide to help determine what is causing that lack of power of your Multifuel.)

Exactly....! What he said... As suspected.... Case solved!

I would never suggest using any petroleum based products inside a tire!!...........:rolleyes:

See his post #5 .........

@Guyfang, that link you provided brings a 404-error. Please take a look and correct if possible. Tks.

Good point: in a vehicle everything twists and flexes, especially the springs. So, the pinion angle varies constantly, load-depending between driving and coasting. Enough at least to ensure adequate lubrication when running a CV driveshaft. Correct driveline geometry is most important in a...

.... meaning it's about correct - if we can assume that the engine/transmission/TC is tilted more or less 2-3 degrees. Put them aside; you don't need any shims. As I wrote in post #2: you want your driveshaft to be lengthened 1.5 - 2 inches, that's all. That's what we do when the driveshaft...

Sorry for the very late reply: all of them had High- and Low Fwd, plus Reverse. Hope you got it solved by now.

Not broken; they came that way........ That's a new one, to me at least..... Much better than stock, IMHO...!

Your last two pics should be the rear DS, not the front...(?) Anyway, it needs to be 2" longer at least and that can't be solved by just adding shims. Also, the difference between pinion angle and TC output should remain within 1-2deg - unless you installed a DS with a CV-joint.

The wheels pictured are 20x10" MRAP, 10 on 335mm center, 20-bolt, heavy duty steel construction and weighing about 170lbs. They would work well with adapters. But those sand tires are way too big, measuring almost 49" O.D. Your distance between rear axles is only 48", so...

Answer: Most probably not. (Because of weight and size it doesn't make much sense at all !)

This topic has been covered here, before: All W/Winch trucks have their HL in the upper position. Otherwise the (raised & extended) bumper would project a shadow on the ground, not far ahead. Early Non-winch trucks had them low. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/headlight-placement.15117/