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That's what I figured so I've just barely got them snug, will readjust and safety wire this week, thanks very much!!

So they don't necessarily get tightened all the way down, it's kind of like tightening up a packing?

Well we put it back together and it's running great! I have one issue, if I tighten the screws down on the bridge that holds the shutoff rod in it jams the rod tight, I think it might be the o ring I used, all they had in that size was the quad ring that's supposed to be equivalent to the one...

We got truck #2 running, cleaned entire fuel system and changed all 3 filters. The hyd head was stuck, cleaned it, stoned a tiny booger off of the plunger and replaced clip and guide plate as well as o-rings, cranked right up! While it was off we replaced the private Pyle oil cooler/filter base...

I think I found what I needed, the search function works well, just have to search diff ways, LOTS of good info here to go thru

I don't intend to hijack, I'm going to have to do a rear main seal, what type of seal is it? I ask bc I've done this job before but not on one of these engines, am wondering if it's a two piece rubber, rope, or one piece design and do I need to pull the oil pan to do it?

I re-lined my parking brake shoes, replaced the springs and cable today, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Now I can stop carrying 4x4's in the jerry can holder!

I got em!! Thanks very much, info is greatly appreciated sir:D

I need the big one that has the metal plate and two bolts, I'm just going to get a plate burned out on the plasma table and cut the rubber out of a old mud flap as it seems that surplus ones aren't available.

When bringing it up to tdc on no1 it should work like any 4 cycle. I work on gas engines of all kinds and I use this all the time, watch the no 1 intake valve open, then close, after it closes the mark on the balancer will becoming around to the pointer, as the mark is getting closer the piston...

This started out as fixing/replacing the oil pressure gauge but my ocd took over. Still have to finish the glove box door but my blast cabinet needs a new window, where can I get the grommets for the panel lights? And the big one where the main harness comes through the firewall?

I just got finished, the wire was grounding somewhere, disconnected both ends and checked to ground, Es no Bueno. Used the original ends and ran a new wire, works like a champ. Also fixed my poor charging issue, cleaned all connections and still no good. It helps A LOT if the belts are tight...

I forgot to mention that I tried the new gauge with same results and I had the whole dash out over the weekend for cleaning/painting. While it was out I looked at every connector, found none dirty but blew them out and put nyogel in every one. I did find one with a bit of insulation missing but...

When I got this deuce going a few weeks ago the oil press gauge didn't work. When I went to work on it the second time I took a new gauge and sender with me, installed just the sender and the gauge worked fine for about 3-4 days. Now the gauge pegs out when I turn on the main switch and works...

Ok just making sure, thank you sir!

What is the correct ambac part # for the plunger guide (bowtie washer)?

I found all the park brake parts at Eriks, I got them Otw!

Ok I'll check it out, does anyone know of a source for the parking brake cable? It's free but the long threaded end under the truck is EXTREMELY rusty, it's actually flaking off.

Yes sir I got them from a local bearing house, ordered the retainer and bow tie washer from ambac yesterday, I stoned the 2-3 tiny nicks off the plunger and out of the bore, I guess we are just waiting now. I'll have to o ring the running truck too as its making oil:((.

I got it all cleaned up, there is the 12 point plug that uses a tapered seat to seal against the hyd head, then a spring, and it was stuck pretty good but in the bottom of the hole is a pointed needle valve similar to what's in a carburetor except it is steel , any of this sound right?