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Picked it up at Fastenal today. This unit was most definitely some where sandy, bottom of control panel has a good coating of sand. Rest of generator engine enclosure was similarly coated in areas, a wet-vac will take care of that. The outside of unit is pretty good no major dings or bent items...

I failed to get the head to seal up, I have a complete head replacement on its way. I believe that the valve seats were messed up.

I bought another MEP-831A with 590 hours on it. Should be around a week till it arrives. The seller is selling how it was revived from Gov action, drained of oil and fuel. It was made in 2002 and Reset in 2006 at 2.2hrs, not sure at this point what Tier Reset it was. Seller says engines has good...

Have you disconnected the dead battery?

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Have you looked at fuel water separator, Does it have water in it? Whats the hour meter indicate? Do you have compression? Is the decompression lever engaged? Edit: Also the valve lashing is that in spec.?

Plan to run it similar to a mep-016d, plan to just feed to actuator the power the SLC100 receives. Might install a pwm source if needed to supply power. It should keep the fault shutdown system intact and functional. Edit: Can you explain what a 3-5 % built in droop means.

I stand corrected.

I'm pretty sure uncle sam is getting rid of the cursed things. The new mep-10xx series are supposedly don't wet stack, so 5kw and up I'm guessing. Power needs have risen since the introduction of the mep-831a, every troop wants their computers and phones. The biggest down fall of this unit is...

I cleaned up the valves Before I tore it down yesterday, during the compression stroke to TDC the valve lashing was spot on .13mm. When I rotated it once again on the exhaust stroke the valve lashing was very tight. This doesn't seem right , I think something maybe be off. Don't exactly have...

I would just get a new battery after your set is running good, I used a pair of SLA-12v18 batteries. I kinda doubt that fried the controller, these things crap out for some other reason.

If it were me I would pickup some wire labels at home improvement store and label the wires at the boot of connector.

When it was failing to start yes that was unburned fuel. As for oil loss that was probably from it running for a hour during it first hour of operation since tearing into it.

I just looked at oil level really close there was some oil burned off, not much maybe two threads worth. Thanks for your help.

exhaust valve and seat looks cruddy the intake looks a bit better. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B45AWBFXIAUtWE92eHpPS1IyNWM?usp=sharing

Hammer didn't do any good. I did it while pressured up. thanks

The valves are leaking the exhaust is leaking pretty good and the intake is minor. When I plugged up the port and turned flywheel there is really good compression. https://youtu.be/fkt7g8G15jc

LOL it leaks more than what it used to. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Sure can try. I've been hunting where compression loss is. Ensuring the rockers are not interfering with it. During the compression stroke stopping at TDC the valve lashing is good, but when I rotote the fly wheel once back to TDC the valve lashing is very tight. Demonstrated in video...

I could not get it to start up this morning, valve lash is in spec. Fuel is being delivered to injector pump. When I pull start cord I can feel compression for a few seconds I can also hear a leak somewhere. The first time I attempted it popped threw exhaust and shoot some soot out, scared me...