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Did you read page 126? Points you right at the TISS and TOSS for 87 ratio error. These two sensors are known to give issues. The code will cause the limp mode you're in. Suggest you focus on these sensors and related wiring.
I have never seen a CUCV 2 GMT400 lifted in military service. To lift this truck (other than cranking down the torsion bars), you had to install a sub frame on the front end which was not a simple thing.
“Did you or a loved one heat up CARC painted surfaces and were exposed to the fumes, and are now suffering from pulmonary carcinoma? If so contact our law firm!!!”
Oh I fing sure can, takes a fing week with a torch to heat the metal enough to get the shit to come off with a putty knife. Did I mention I hate bedliner?
Before you tear into the engine, I suggest you remove the belts to eliminate the accessories as a source of the noise, and carefully inspect the harmonic balancer for rubber degradation. Check the torque converter bolts for tightness and flex plate for cracks.
All 3 lever light switches have a self resetting circuit breaker inside. Sounds like you have a short to ground in a harness somewhere. Did a critter dine on your wires somewhere up underneath? You will need to trace out the circuits looking for sins.
Possibly someone used jumper cables and hooked the negative cable to the chassis rather than the battery, which caused high amps to flow through the light gauge wires.
Ugh. 3 ways. Replace floor by removing 1000 rivets. Swap body with someone “parting out” a truck. Plate over it with aluminum plate or the GMV WB3 floor material. (RWH might have this on a salvage truck)
Before you condemn the TCM, it is possible that somewhere in the harness, one of the two wires going to the solenoid have chafed against a chassis ground point, which is telling the TCM during it's self check "whoa, ohms here are not right, throw code". We are suggesting you check for this...
Those manual shift kits are not a great idea. Word is they slam shift hard which might be fine for drag racing but not normal driving. What codes are you getting now that it won't shift out of 2? You have not told us the results of checking for continuity between the pressure control...
That switch has been the same since it's introduction in 1950, still being made now by various mfgrs. With a multimeter you can verify continuity between pins as you move the selectors. Other than that it is not exactly serviceable. DC Electronics is not one of the better mfgrs of it.
Civilian trucks that uncle bought do not have M numbers for the most part. I think your axle is made by Coleman if it has a hemispheric hub appearance.
Great idea!!! BatteryMINDer 2012-AGM for agms, BatteryMINDer 12117 for old school, charge each 12 volt pair separate. Been running these for 10 + years.
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