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See if this works better

This buzzed the shop today, can someone identify it?

Much safer for you and your equipment to use the pintle for pulling also much easier to pull whole trees over than a short stump. Assuming you have a long enough chain, cable or strap! Stump took a LOT more persuasion than the trees

The vent lines are small but should have trouble keeping up with “natural” pressure changes. I suppose closing them could help with moisture over long term storage along with a “full” tank to minimize air space. However during normal operations they need to be open to allow air/moisture in.

See if this works as a link to my build https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m925-m925a2-dump-bed-hoist-install.164018/ I specifically bought a winch truck so I’d already have hydraulics for this project, but may give you some other ideas for yours.

Handle flipped and cable stowed, ready to go! Hauled and spread several loads of gravel over the summer, as well as moving a bunch of mud, rock and dirt around the farm. Tailgate worked flawless and made the dump bed even more useful! Hopefully shes done working on the old pond…

Realized I forgot to post final pics About 450# max tension throughout travel lowering tailgate. Can never have enough reflective tape. Side boards back on and bolted up. Small hand crank winch and pulley works perfect for lowering and raising.

Check your tank vents, sounds like they are plugged…

Are they DOT stamped or have a speed rating?

Biggest thing is you will feel the unusual condition as the OP did when he let off the throttle, and will “usually” break the drum free, but after feeling the drag on the truck you will always reverify all wheels are turning freely.

Fortunately the tank has two vent lines on it and is the reason you had to, and where able to turn your compressor up so high. IIRC 1 PSI will push fuel up over two feet, so you only need a couple psi in the fuel tank to push fuel higher than the top of your engine, unless you have a blockage in...

Does your truck have the big canister fuel filter behind the drivers front wheel? Exactly how did you pressurize the tank with air, through the tank vent lines, drill and install a fitting in the fuel cap, or something else?

If you’ve found the machine serial number contact your local Clark parts dealer, they maybe able to get you the original build sheet and parts manual They made me this one for free about 20 years ago, after I stopped in for some simple parts. Parts where very reasonable as well. Not as old as...

No way to put the genie back in the bottle now, just assume all stands are rated in pairs, unless you can prove otherwise. Another reason to use good cribbing…

Can you check for air after the overflow valve, or does it have to be before the IP?

I used a snubber that replaces the banjo bolt on the outlet of the filter housing. Cant remember where I got it, maybe TorkTek when I bought my adjustable overflow valve?

Pressure gauge is a worth while addition

Interesting optioned 5 ton in the last photo. Dropside, level wind, and assuming fording kit. Was the spare tire in the bed the “normal” location?

Throw the FSOV to the side until your problem is resolved.

I’m guessing he want to read transmission fluid/oil temperature and pressure via the cooler lines? I don’t think this is a good place to measure either, especially pressure…