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If any of those little white Ts break during your work, just know they are 1/8" vacuum T fittings, available at many local auto stores.

Just undo the bolts on the top of the air filter bracket assy, and bend them out of the way. The canister lifts up and out.

Sometimes the only way to get shit done is to send the wife and kids out on an errand so they don't see whats about to be done... guilty of that too. :)

I've never seen a failure on this larger hose on any of the sets I have gone through. But I would probably just have my local NAPA fab up a hydraulic line with JIC fittings if I had to. I had them do that on the primary fuel line (post fuel filters) on an 002 and it was well worth the money.

Nice score... you have to be patient enough to find the real winners like this auction. Hope they are both excellent machines with little work needed.

The fuel lines are easy (if we are talking soft lines, versus hard lines). The larger diameter lines can be easily crossed to Gates Safety Stripe II 1/4", and the return line to Gates Safety Stripe II 1/8". Both are readily available at O'Reillys either by the foot, or the spool. Other chains...

Those look like real good substitutions!

You didnt happen to keep the manufacturer and model number of what you purchased did you?

If you care to share, PM me that ebay bundle offer link on the ZDDP Ray? Thanks

This is the line that I come back to (and I am sure Ray did as well). Corrosion can put you in intermittent condition hell. I think if it was a failed component or setting with the VR, it would persist under all conditions.

Yeah invest in a bathtub full of a good quality contact cleaner (I like Deoxit better than CRC, but you use what you can get)... and just SOAK the switches with the batteries disconnected, and move them through their range until your elbow wants to give out. Surprising what this magic in a can...

doghead and the other moderator bounty hunters don't care.

I am currently working from home due to the world's events... so doing my part in whoring up SS. Taking the roof off would be imperative in mounting on the backside of that firewall... there are many components back there. It can absolutely be done with care and patience. I would think the CT...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-emergency-jump-starting.183609/page-2#post-2179598

Is it running at the correct speed? I had a set in that was displaying over voltage because someone had manipulated the throttle stops (so it WAS producing too much voltage).

I mounted mine on the inside of the dead crank door... is that what you are thinking of? I didnt get any extra noise from where I put it. On the machine I mounted it, your proposed position had the arctic heater kit installed (but I have since sold that machine, but retained the NOCO). It might...

If thats the avenue you want to go, reach out to Gary Jones @ Diesel Electric Services (reference that you have a military LPW4). https://diesel-electric.us Gary not only oversaw an extensive rebuild program in relation to the engines in these MEP sets, but his company also bought up the assets...

Do you have crimps or some way of making a very solid wiring connection? These arent weather tight sets like the 80x series, so anything you can do to make the job right, and water tight, will serve you well down the line.

And if you are going to do this, just do it with 1 pump first (if they are OEM pumps, they allow pass through if one dies) to verify it fixed the condition. You can then do any other pumps you wish, and reconnect them.

The DC side of these sets don't like that. Do you have the original pumps in place with the EMI filters (square box) still in line from the plug to the pump? Those often fry during a DC event. As doghead said, you should be able to cut them out and the pumps work again. Before doing that...