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The OEM cap is available on the big auction site now, if you search 35370483B

Lost power again today for a short while... over a foot of the white stuff incoming starting tomorrow. Had literally put the last rubber tie down in place on the tarp over the unit and my wife poked her head out the window saying power just went out. Feels good to be prepared.

Birds done, and the machine performed perfectly. Back on grid to finalize everything.

Got the winds today, currently roasting off the 802. Happy turkey day all.

Sounds like he was overdrawing the convenience outlet (its only 10A), and kicking the breaker off. The AM/VM switch simply controls which setting the gauges are looking for. Set that puppy to 3 o clock for normal 120/240V 1ph. Sounds like you got a steal on this.

Even if it doesn't make power, you've got well over a grand in potential resale there (Ive sold those trailers for more than a grand, by themselves).

If you run the machine at 100% rated capacity, it will never wet stack. You ramp up to it, like others have said... but if you can get it burning clean and strong at 100%, what more can you ask? Overloading it in an ttempt to 'high speed clean' will not end well for anything. Even if you can...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?191540-MEP-831A-WiFi-Remote-Start-Governor-Controllers

Have you checked the connections from the gauge, back through the machine to their source? A loose connection can cause intermittent readings. If your meter reads fine, and you don't hear the machine varying its RPM... we look at connections, or the gauge itself. Have you deoxidized the switches...

Its not solar, but another idea to consider: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?183609-MEP-Emergency-Jump-Starting&p=2179598&viewfull=1#post2179598

Yeah scour the forum, many part numbers for both tossed out over the years. I have a less expensive temp gauge in my personal machine, and because the ohms aren't exact it reads closer to 200 at normal temp (versus the 180 it is). Fine by me for the cost savings.

Yes I was going to send him that info separately, if thats all he needs. The hinge is tougher to come by... might need to go tractor flap if its gone.

Yes you can use Gates hose from O reillys or similar. Right off the shelf, with hose clamps for the primary fuel lines, and zip ties for the return line. The "t"s in the return line are 1/8" plastic vacuum tees, should you have any that break.

I don't even entertain sets without the flapper, no matter what.

The flapper is a two part assembly: the actual flapping lid, and a simple hinge. Do you have either part or are both gone?

I just bought some in from a new supplier, going to test them out this weekend on a couple machines. https://www.allfuses.com/fnq-r-3 https://www.allfuses.com/30311r Will let you know.

I don't think anyone can tell you with 100% certainty, but adding a soft start to this appliance definitely won't hurt your cause.

78 LRA = UP TO 78A draw at startup... there is your problematic item.

I like the position you chose for the power entry.

Does your voltage gauge work? How do you have the AM/VM set on your machine?