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So how are you wiring the other two elements then? I do understand the jumper on the dual element scenario.

Its going to have galvanized panels on all 4 sides of the 'tube'. They go on last after all wiring is done and tested. And yes, two elements on two separate circuits, then 2 wired in series on a third circuit.

Should the fuel float assembly be removed for this? I dont know how fragile it is, having not had to remove one yet.

I wanted something easily portable... and I had a firewood rack that was doing nothing but growing vines on it. On your setup csheath... did you simply use wire nuts to jump the (2) 120v lines into a single conductor for each element?

Nowhere near done of course, but its starting to take shape. Shots taken before I started the wiring over the weekend.

One of the machines I just received, the tank looks like **** on the inside. I am assuming I can use some sort of 'aggregate' with liquid and remove it from the machine and simply shake the **** out of it. Anyone have a better idea? Does CLR chew through the crap that deposits in these tanks? It...

Mine reset too tonight. Weird, but fixed now because of this. Thanks

Testing one of my new arrivals... fluids done, batteries installed... figure out which fuel pumps work and which dont. So I can get fuel all the way up to the last fitting I can reach on the fuel line, just outside of the IP. Fuel is being returned to the tank... but I'm not getting any in the...

I saw a low hour (under 20) MEP-803A out of GA go for $5000​ just last week. Thats stupid.

Are these codes something that GP is assigning? I have not noticed a coding system before... but I use GL for my needs. Also definitely watch the freight if you need to have them shipped. Just cost me $1400 to move (2) MEP002As from TX to MA.

There are a few sites which you can source these on (the other being Gov liqudation). I dont know how their contracts are written, but I only ever see MEPs on Gov planet are on trailers (where the are just generators on GL). If you dont need the trailer... consider the other source. But yeah...

The bronze part is 95% copper (versus 99% for the other link). I have bronze for use as backups. Time will tell if I made a bad decision... though I'm not super concerned. :)

Depends if you are slowly adding load, or dumping your mother in laws hot tub AND deep fryer onto the circuit at the same time... but regardless these machines should take it and will only vary upon initial balancing.

Its the twisting motion on the cable knob which allows for fine rpm tuning, basically... to tweak the rpms due to load, to hit 60hz.

The center button allows the RPMs to change. It drops them down to 1200 or so (but the reality of the machine in my opinion, and others... is that you never want to slow this machine down). If you open the door on the cable side, you can trace the line right back to the governor control... that...

If you do, PM me your address. I have a couple extra of those throttle knarps, be happy to drop one in the mail.

Oof... that Dorman cable looks better all the time, huh? Still waiting on my guy to get me a price.

Is that critical rain cover mil-spec? :)

Good luck riding it out!

No, not is is not. Bronze is an amalgamation... so that makes sense. For the heat and torque required for this application, to me, straight copper would be a bad idea. But thats just my opinion. Here are some more technical specifications on the alloy used in the McMaster parts...