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These days I do need a project once in a while to stay sane (I surmise the current pandemic has something to do with it). For a long time I wanted to prepare my hot water heater to be mounted in-cab, similar to what the M35A3 models have. It is an easy project.
Tools:
1/2 inch wrench/socket to...
For air compressor belt, a trick:
Put belt on, spin pulley halves by hand as tight as possible without pinching belt (turn engine/pulley by hand). Then start engine and run for a few 5-10 seconds . Stop engine and check belt tension. If too loose, run engine again. Tighten lock bolts.
For...
Yes, that kit will work. The upgraded drive axle seal I was mentioning is this one: https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/product-page/upgrade-2-5-ton-billet-retainer-with-tube-seal-wobble-seal-1
If it is tight, carefully check the HH for cracks. If there are none, carefully clean the plug (it is a tapered fit) and reinstall. If it still leaks after that, you can put a flat copper washer under the bolt and re-tighten.
Read here...
How about setting the idle to 700-750 (where it should be, so it does not shake everything to bits) and then re-evaluating whether it starts and runs? It may not like the low rpm. For test purposes you can simply use the hand throttle and click it up to the desired rpm.
My personal preference is the slightly oversized boots from rockwelloffroad.com
https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/product-page/2-5-ton-rubber-boots
for ease of installation. I have them and they hold up well. Also I like their upgraded front inner seal for the drive shaft (sock style).
Sent...
My spouse, too, gets to ride in spring seat supported bliss. I have an air ride seat (Shhhhhh! Quiet!).
I am also working on spousal support to grow the truck family, but she is not as enthusiastic as I would like. Maybe renovating the bathroom will help.
When I did mine I had beaten it with a small mallet quite unsuccessfully.
After reading the thread I thought "Ok, then!" and whacked it with a long handled sledge. One or two strikes was all it took to pop it off.
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The steering arm can be a b@stard to remove.
Here is a good thread. You need a bigger hammer.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/stubborn-steering-arm.47041/
It would be helpful to see a video of the blowby.
Some reading: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ldt-465-rebuild.16455/
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/blow-by-assessment-opinions-needed.130059/
Note that the air compressor is a "must-check" when seeing blowby. Unhook the belt and...
Well, if you were closer I'd invite you to come on over and we'd go for a little ride.
Alas, perhaps there are Texan members that think similar thoughts.
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As a general rule, a naturally aspirated diesel can handle some backpressure in the exhaust. It creates inefficiency. A diesel engine does not "need" exhaust resistance but engineering facts and old timers' lore often do not play nice together. Old time mechanics will tell you that a reasonable...
The rad responds very favourably to regular soldering (I accidentally cut into it when cutting the fan shroud...) so in a pinch no rad shop needed!
Good that the engine mount does not seem to have cracked!
:oops: That would be such a disappointment! Awesome engine design though, to even run with a broken crank. NDT, I think I know where to find a OEM LDS crankshaft if needed.
There are basically two and 1/2 options. You can run a simple forward facing PTO that is used for the PTO winch and make it work for a pump. It needs fabricating but they are plentiful. The second option is a transfer case PTO as used by the water and fuel trucks and auger trucks, I think. This...
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